Quoi de neuf ?

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question about peyote

Ultima

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27 Déc 2007
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894
MrCactus a dit:
Biological pest control against sciarid flies ( I mentioned earlier Sciara flies)

Steinernema feltiae (entomopathogenic nematode)
Hypoaspis aculeifer (predatory mite)
hypoaspis miles (predatory mite)
Yellow sticky catch plates

See: http://www.koppert.com/pests/sciarid-fl ... rid-flies/

those look about right. they had a black head, with an almost see through body (grub form). but they havent shown up since my one problem.. so i think im safe. thanks alot for taking your time to figure out what it was! :)
 

lucifer1982

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18 Oct 2008
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74
Hello people
I have manu big/old peyotes. Collecting them is my biggest hobby and lifestyle. I want to trip now on a old plant. De plant is very old... 2 heads (see pic). One head with 13 ribs (mature head) and a small head (about 3, 4 cm). Big head is about (7, 8 cm).
Should this plant be enough for a normal trip? I have one time made a thee from 4 small plants (plants about 3, 4 years) but i began to feel me tired and gape and feel me kalm but no big trip.
So, can someone tell me of this plant is enough of ik must take more plants. Because it is my first time i want a little or normal trip. See for the picture the link

http://easy-upload.nl/f/siwgwvPv
 

lucifer1982

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18 Oct 2008
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74
Hello
I have another question. Last month when i boughted a very big and old peyote from a collector, he told me that peyotes are not actief (mescaline) in cold europe. But i have heard people who has eaten peyote with good results.
I shall add the picture of the plant, can someone tell me of such a old plant with give any trip or not? Shall i feel anything or something if i eat this plant?
Thank you.

picture: http://easy-upload.nl/f/hq5R5k2B
 

HeartCore

Holofractale de l'hypervérité
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22 Août 2004
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I never had mescaline but usually multiple 'buttons' are consumed to get anywhere. My suspicion is that this plant is far from enough to set you off.
 

meme

Matrice périnatale
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26 Août 2008
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Speaking wo any experiance in the matter, it is probably enough to modulate a san pedro experiance into a peyote experiance. Allegedly, the effect the other alkaloids have on the mescaline does not require very much peyote. Rumor has it taking a small amount of peyote with pure mescaline or processed san pedro produces an experiance like peyote.
 

MrCactus

Glandeuse pinéale
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31 Oct 2009
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152
I can not see the picture you uploaded.

A Peyote with 13 ribs is probably Lophophora fricii, which contains no Mescaline.
Lophophora fricii has a grey-green color of the skin and intense pink flowers.
For a picture: http://www.peyote-paradise.nl/index.php ... 60&lang=NL

The Peyote experience is stronger than a Mescaline experience, because the Peyote contains many other alkaloids.

Fresh Peyote contains 0,12 % or less Mescaline, for a trip you'll need at least 300 mg Mescaline.
So 0,12 x 0,01 x weight of Peyote in mg = 300 mg.
Weight of Peyote in mg = 300 / (12 / 10000) = 300 x (10000 / 12 mg) = 3000000 / 12 mg = 250000 mg = 250 gram Peyote.

A cubic (!) Peyote plant of 8 cm x 8 cm x 4 cm = 256 gram.
So you'll need one or two very big fresh Peyote plants !
 

Jerimah3

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23 Jan 2011
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48
So I recently acquired some peyote seeds, and I'm guessing just like everyone else who grows this plant, I want to see this beautiful plant sprout and grow into an illustrious strong cactus, my main intentions is NOT to eat the little guys...

I've got a decent amount of seeds, but I don't know the % of seeds that live/die. I was hoping for around 5 plants that might survive at least a few months. So I was wondering how many seeds I can expect to do nothing, and how many that sprout I should expect not to make it. Once I make it year with some I feel like I'll have a bit of a better understanding with some hands on learning, and can plant the rest with maybe better results or just more solid knowledge.

Any advice on growing them would be great! I've read a few guides and poked around a few forums and such to get some advice for growing...

-Soil: Don't get Miracle Grow (even Miracle Grow Cactus Special), no need to mix soil yourself, just local greenery/flower shop cactus soil. Some rocks on the bottom may be added to help drainage, and as the seedlings grow into cacti may add some rocks on top to keep moisture.

-Water/Humidity: Drench the soil and let water pour through it at least a few times before planting. Once planted to place a bag or some sort of clear plastic over the top, then slowly poke holes through it once the seeds start to sprout. After that water sparingly, I am not too clear on this, once the plastic wrap is removed how often and how much do you water? Any specific water, distilled? tap? pond? rain? purified? Any better/worse, wouldn't mind collecting rain water if my cacti need it, or even just as a treat for better water. Also I heard throughout the winter months they require 0 water, none at all. Then once spring comes to drench water through the soil a few times before you begin watering.

Planting/Potting: When planting place each seed roughly 1cm away from one another and about 1cm deep. Plant them all in a large pot (specifications please), then once they are almost a year old they will be ready to transplant. Transplant into their own pots each, with the same soil planted in. I've heard that clay is very preferred to plastic as roots shift in plastic pots. Obviously transplanting is far away from planting, but I'm still unclear on most of it and how fragile the plants are during this process. I'm really interested in the best specifications of growing apparatus (material, size, drainage, depth, etc...)

Heating/Sunlight: Very unclear on this entire matter... I've heard that people put heating pads under their plants, I heard this is an awful idea, I've heard many different temperatures for growing/winter months. Also I've heard that they need sunlight, but too much will burn them, some say they don't need any sunlight at all. Any input on this matter would be great a bit lost.


I think those are the major basic things of which I need to address, if you can think of anything else please add it. Everything that I wrote is not fact, just what I've gathered from everything I've read, I could be completely wrong and would love to know if I am!
I would like to grow them very naturally and low strung, wasn't planning on buying lights and watering systems and such, just window-sil plants and water them with a watering can (honestly probably just a cup).

ANY help would be LOVED

Thanks!!
 

darkwolfunseen

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Okay I love Loph's so here's some advice:

1) When growing from seeds you should know that it will take a while before they are even close to the size of a coin.
2) Humidity is important when planting, lighting isn't. So I recommend having a humidity dome and keeping the planter indoors. Sprouting rates really depend on how fresh the seeds are.
3) Watering is strongly cut during winter, but it depends on the temperate/sunlight exposure. I'd say once or twice a month during winter minds isn't too bad.
4) Loph's are sensitive to fertilizers so make sure to use from 1/4 to 1/2 of regular cactus fertilizer recommendations.
5) Clay pots are definitely recommended, but more importantly I would re-plant the seeds once they're a few months old out of a central planter and into separate pots. Transplants are recommended in early spring. Make sure to try to move the soil along with the plant.

Loads more advice, but if you have more specific questions, just post.
 

Jerimah3

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23 Jan 2011
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48
darkwolfunseen a dit:
Okay I love Loph's so here's some advice:

1) When growing from seeds you should know that it will take a while before they are even close to the size of a coin.
2) Humidity is important when planting, lighting isn't. So I recommend having a humidity dome and keeping the planter indoors. Sprouting rates really depend on how fresh the seeds are.
3) Watering is strongly cut during winter, but it depends on the temperate/sunlight exposure. I'd say once or twice a month during winter minds isn't too bad.
4) Loph's are sensitive to fertilizers so make sure to use from 1/4 to 1/2 of regular cactus fertilizer recommendations.
5) Clay pots are definitely recommended, but more importantly I would re-plant the seeds once they're a few months old out of a central planter and into separate pots. Transplants are recommended in early spring. Make sure to try to move the soil along with the plant.

Loads more advice, but if you have more specific questions, just post.


First, You're going to be hearing a lot from me, I love to ask questions and will never turn down any advice, especially from someone who knows what their talking about. If you have any form of contact besides these forums so I don't need to post and hope you see it that would be lovely, like e-mail, or skype chat, or anything else!

I was told that the success rate is around 50%, I figure I'll plant 11 seeds for my first go at it, hopefully get at least 5 to survive past the transplant.

I'm still not entirely sure on specifications on the planters, I have a rough idea in my head going off 1cm apart and 1cm deep, but I'm not sure how big the original planter should be and really the depths are really unclear. I hear the roots are very fragile and important, so I want to make sure to give enough room, especially when I go about transplanting them.

I'd guess where I want to grow them (not including sunlight heat) gets to be about 22C at most during summer months, and as low as -1C during winter months [although today is -26C, that is extremely rare] Is there like a point where if it gets too cold or too warm?

Also how much water should be given when I water them? I keep hearing the words "root rot" which makes me cringe, so I know over watering can be devastating, but I haven't heard much about under watering, although I know they require water to live, haha.
 

darkwolfunseen

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No worries, but let's keep it on this post so people can refer to later:

1) 50% success rate is a bit conservative, which is good as freshness is hard to estimate unless you're taking it from your own Loph's.

2) Planters would be a long shallow plastic tray with a humidity dome. It's important to water the seeds carefully. I've had most success by daily spraying the cactus mix with a sprayer until the top of the mix is moist. When the Loph is out of the ground, and already as big as a dime, you can switch to directly watering it (I use distilled water, but it isn't that important). The 1cm rule deep is fine, but I'd put them a bit farther apart. Finally, if you want to make the transplant into a pot very easy, take a small piece of plastic and line each seed location, with the plastic sticking out a bit. Then place the seed there. Once the seed has sprouted, and a month or two have gone by, slowly pinch all sides of the plastic and the pull out each seedling, placing it into it's own individual clay pot.

3) Loph's are relatively okay with the cold when they are mature (+2 years). But with seedlings, you really will need to bring it home into a warm area (above 0C). Also, when the seedlings are sprouted, if there is no sunlight available you can use cfl's or grow lights in order to provide enough light (and heat).

4) During the summer, you can water the plant about twice a week, where you soak through the pot. However, keep in mind that if it's a particularly cold summer, or there isn't much sunlight, you can cut back a week. In the winter months, once a month is more than fine.

Hope that helps.
 

Jerimah3

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23 Jan 2011
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Only on for a moment, so it's a quick response, will have more to ask later haha, I've got to start my notebook to write down all the importants...

You said line each seed place with plastic for an easy transplant, which sounds like a great idea. What kind of plastic did you have in mind? like a small piece of tarp cut to length? or more rigid plastic like the kind plants like tomatoes would come in from a greenery (the kind that are like only like 2x3 per plant and comes in packs of 6)? I'm also guessing that you would remove the plastic once it is moved into its permanent clay house?

Also watering, yes watering again, in the summer you said to "soak through", that just spells too much water to me, do you really mean to keep adding water until I see it drain out of the bottom, and to do this 2 times a week?
Sidenote, I've heard bottom watering mentioned a bit, I'm not familiar with it and will use the spray and top watering methods, just felt I'd mention it to hear your thoughts.

Finally (for this post) when would be the best time to plant them? you said to transplant them in early spring, but that was when I planned on planting them, any light on that would be great.

Thanks, you've been so much of a help already!
 

Jerimah3

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23 Jan 2011
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Have been thinking about this for a while, and especially since you mentioned the plastic to transplant them... If I took an egg carton and planted each seed where an egg would go, would that work? The cardboard on egg cartons always struck me as very biodegradable, not sure if it is, just seems like it is, so perhaps when they needed to be transplanted I could just place the entire egg section in the bigger pot and not need to dig up the little plant, and the egg carton would degrade in the bigger pot and go away. Any thoughts?
 

Jerimah3

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23 Jan 2011
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Thanks! I checked out some of his posts, from what I can see he was very knowledgeable and from his pictures a very good grower.

If I really need an answer and can't find it on here, I will definitely check his posts. But since they are out of context they will be a little harder to follow and can't ask exact questions. But I may also try to e-mail him if I get stuck with something. Thanks for that contact!
 

Jerimah3

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23 Jan 2011
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48
The time is almost upon me to plant some of my seeds, probably 10, hoping for a yield of 5 or so, might go overboard and plant 11 or 12! :O haha

Anyway, I've got some overall information on the entire grow process, but figure it'd be best to get some specifics at such a crucial stage of the plant's life.

I plan to plant them evenly spaced apart in a trough shaped planter, should be plenty big enough with each seed having a few inches between them. The planter is plastic, thick and durable. I've been told clay is the best, but I figure that while they are germinating and in the months before transplant it wouldn't matter much. I have clay pots for the surviving williamsii's, but we'll cross that bridge when we get there.

I've read a few different soil compositions, I will be using premixed cactus soil (not miracle-grow) instead of mixing my own with different %'s of soil, just something for me to fuck up... Question is, rocks on top, they are recommended but I wonder if that is just once they are full cacti and not just growing.

Watering... I heard best is to soak through the soil, then put plastic over the top and once you start seeing green saplings poke through start to poke holes through the plastic, more every few days, then remove plastic altogether. Question is, what exactly does "soak through" mean, do I want to plant in damp soil or wet soil with lots of water in it? Also, should their be holes in the bottom of the planter? why/why not?

Anything else I forgot please add anything! First time planting/growing, so I need the help.

Thanks!
 

Ultima

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germinating peyote is extremely easy. if planting 10 or so seeds make sure they will have at least 4 inches of soil for their roots. make sure there is a high edge, for plastic wrap, and get some high quality soil(preferably with a little bit of sand mixed in with it). put your seeds on top of the soil, get a spray bottle, use about 300ml of water with the spray, and cover the top. use a 60-100W white light for germination, giving them about 14-16 hours of light a day. after about 3-5 days you should see at least one pop. if not, wait up to 3 weeks for full germination. i personally would start poking holes in the plastic wrap until 2 weeks after the first seed pops. they LOVE humidity in the germination state, so dont open the plastic! make sure the plastic on top has suport, because the water droplets eventually weigh it down. make sure to keep your cacti nice n warm! anywhere from 75F-85F.

DO NOT GIVE THEM DIRECT SUNLIGHT!
 

Bule010

Matrice périnatale
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17 Août 2010
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Hello Psychonauts,

I am traveling for a while now, giving my peyote to someone to take care.
Today I got some very disturbing news.. My baby has brown spots all over.

She has been in a room without or with almost no ventilation I think this could be the cause of it.
She didn't get too much water (I presume)

Anyway at this point I don't care what the cause is... I would very much like to know if she can be saved and how?

If anyone can help me out it would be very much appriciated!

Here is how she looks: (sorry for the big size)
 
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