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The "food grade" CaOH/d-limonene/HCl cactus extraction

Methyl Man

Banni
Inscrit
31 Août 2010
Messages
30
Hi psychonauts,

The following is a gift for the mescaline lovers in the house from me, my way of saying "glad to be here!"

It is based on the same method as written up on dmt-nexus.com, so I can claim no innovations, but I can tell you that I watched my neighbor's civet cat do it and it worked well the first time right outta the gate, so it is not theoretical.

As usual, I wrote it up in my own direct and friendly style so I hope it is a pleasure to follow. Without further ado:


The food grade CaOH/d-limonene/HCl cactus extraction

[NOTE: this is not actually food grade, technically, unless you get food-grade CaOH and food-grade HCl . But it is close enough for many, and uses no petro-solvents.] Use food-grade d-limonene (easy to find).

Mix powdered dry cactus 1:1 with calcium hydroxide. You're supposed to use food grade "pickling lime"... the civet cat didn't as it couldn't find it locally and didn't want to wait for mail order. The cat used horticultural lime instead. He figured, we're not eating the lime---it is only serving as a base and then gets extracted away from and neutralized when the acid salting is done later. Anything that could possibly be contaminating horticultural CaOH, he reasoned, will be extracted away from in the final stages.

Anyway, to the 1:1 cactus:CaOH mixture add water, slowly, with thorough stirring. You are looking for a runny guacamole or thin oatmeal like texture. Blended, mobile, yet still thick. Just enough water to incorporate the cactus powder, water, and CaOH together. Stir vigorously for about 5 minutes to get it all mixed and make sure there are no dry clumps.

Notice and watch out for the stanky ammonia smell, which the civet cat remembered from the MDMA synthesis and which he assumes means that the alks are liberated.

Then spread this goop out on a large thick mil plastic sheeting, in a large thin layer. You want to dry it out. This stuff stinks bad, so do this outdoors or in a shed or barn or whatever.

Let it dry for about 24 hours (assumes warm, dry weather conditions) or until dry. You can then break it up into smallish pieces. Try not to let it break down too much. Don't breathe any of the dust.

Take the dried cactus/CaOH material and put it in an open-mouth type vessel that you can extract in. The cat used a very large stainless steel salad/mixing bowl. Pour in enough d-limonene to cover. Stir it around to be sure that all of the mix has been saturated in limonene. Then give it some time to sit. I think the cat gave it 24 hours or so. He also covered it to minimize evaporation of the limonene.

After 24 hours, pour off as much limonene as possible through a pasta strainer. One will be subsequently filtering this, so it is not a problem to get some sediment in this transfer. If you want to bee thorough, squeeze the solids with the back of a large spoon or any other way you come up with to get the last several mL out. After getting as much limonene out of the solids as possible, cover the solids again with fresh limonene. Naturally, it takes significantly less this time since the solids are now saturated with it.

Repeat with this second and then a third limonene extraction of the solids, combining all the extractions. You could probably do the second and third extractions for only 12 hours each, if desired, to reduce the total time the whole process takes.

Filter the combined limonene extractions. The cat did it through simple gravity setups, but of course it would be better (faster) to use a Buchner setup. If doing simple gravity filtration, what works well is an initial pass through paper towel, then paper towel combined with cotton loosely stuffed into the funnel spout, then finally, a pass through cotton alone. However it is filtered, the goal is a clear, green/yellow solution that is not cloudy. Save this limonene aside.

Once you have your filtered, collected limonene/alks solution, you can salt it. The cat used HCl/water (6 drops of muriatic into 100 mL water). Any excess HCl will be cleaned out when you recrystallize or wash your product (assuming that you are shooting for a quite pure, mostly-mescaline end product).

The limonene/freebase cactus alkaloids solution is extracted three times in a sep funnel with the HCl/water solution, with the HCl water layer(s) being set aside after separation.

The HCl water/cactus salt solution can now be simply evaporated (note: takes days) in an open glass baking or casserole dish and scraped up. The resulting product will likely have some orange-ish color to it. This color is, I'm told, partly from excess HCl (I thought it is supposed to evaporate?) and partly other alkaloids. A hot topic of discussion on some other forums is how much to wash it at this stage and whether to recrystallize it. Some experiences suggest that to wash it with anhydrous acetone is to wash out all other non-mescaline alkaloids, which will change its character from a blend to pure mescaline. Others insist that you don't get the other alkaloids without careful titration. It's all about what one wants from it I suppose. The civet cat wanted a very straightforward approach, and that meant doing the ham-fisted, broad acidification described above.

Then came the cleanup. In this case, the cat did the old MDMA hot anhydrous IPA/ice cold anhydrous acetone recrystallization [see description at end], and while the final yield was small (1400 mg from 500g cactus if I recall, probably due to only doing three pulls and generally hurrying through the process), it was pearly clean and looked exactly like a lot of the fish-scale looking Peruvian Flake coke I remember seeing in the late 1970s/early 1980s.

The cat offered me the first taste for testing (nice kitty!), and I tried 100 mg as a low-level bioassay just to be sure there were no unfriendly alks in the mix. I needn't have worried, as the recrystallization definitely did leave only clean mescaline.HCl. 100 mg was a threshhold dose that, while very light, definitely revealed the character as being very clean and transparent with no body load whatsoever (obviously there could be an increase in body feelings proportionally with dose increase, but I will bet that even at 300-350 mg it will be super clean). Effects lasted around 10 hours. I am waiting for the right occasion to do a whole dose, since time for 10- to 12-hour trips is much harder to come by these days.

Recrystallization:
Make some anhydrous isopropyl by drying with magnesium sulfate.

Estimate how much dry isopropyl it will take to dissolve your crude HCl salt (usually an equal volume will do it). Then prepare an amount of anhydrous acetone (dry it with CaCl2) that is 4X that volume in a flask or beaker and chill it (covered) in a cold freezer for an hour or so.

Dissolve the crude orangy mescaline HCl in just enough hot, dry IPA to solvate it.

Take the chilled acetone out of the freezer and dribble the hot IPA/mesc.HCl solution into it.

Place the flask/beaker/jar back into the freezer (now covered or capped again) and wait several hours.

Filter through your filtration method of choice. Your clean mescaline salt will be a delicate, pearly species with very small crystal size. That's okay though, because after it dries in the filter setup it will be a nice flat layer that kind of peels right off of the filter paper. Nearly odorless, it does not smell like limonene or much of anything else, and there is nothing to worry about anyway since the main solvent (limonene) was edible. Enjoy!
 

tryptonaut

Holofractale de l'hypervérité
Inscrit
20 Nov 2004
Messages
3 440
Thanks for the tec - I think I have to try that sooner or later. I really like Mescaline, and I got a little San Pedro farm, but getting that shit down is always a major turn-off. Also getting down more than 300-400mg is just impossible with a normal water extraction.

However the tec is still fairly complicated. I'm not a chemist, and even getting the right substances will take some time. But it sounds manageable, I'll try it some time :)
 
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