some problems of grow and grow box

[karlswitzerland]

thanks for your advices tryptonaut, now I have collected all the first flush in the 2 growbox.
Actually the 2 cakes are in water during 24 hours.
I hope 2nd flush will give more and bigger mushrooms, because for the 2 growbox I 've collected 8.5 g (dry) :?
something like 40 g of fresh mushrooms by box, is it normal ?

 

[mysticwarrior]

Yes maybe the temperature, I can try to up the heat, I guess actually it's around 20-21°C.

I would say that the Temperature seems to be to low. I have had this same problem in the past, it wasted my entire growbox. In my living room it was 20-21°C and i waited at least 14 days for the first shrooms appeared, but they did stay tiny and wouldn't grow any larger. A couple of month's later i tried it again with the temperature of 23°C and guess what, the shrooms did really grow like shrooms

 

[tryptonaut]

I hope 2nd flush will give more and bigger mushrooms, because for the 2 growbox I 've collected 8.5 g (dry) :?
something like 40 g of fresh mushrooms by box, is it normal ?

It's not too much, but still in the normal range, I think. I got like 70g fresh on the first flush from my last box - but that wasn't in a plastic bag but in a bigger plastic container. More air in there, so maybe that can make a difference. I never tried the plastic bag method, always put the box into a bigger container. Actually even removed the box the last few times and put the naked cake in the container. A lot of mushrooms grow on the sides and they don't really grow when the cake is in the plastic box.

How much you really got also depends on the size of the shrooms. Very big shrooms, like they happen to appear in the 2nd and 3rd flush after dunking the cake in water, will weigh a lot, but not be that strong.
5g dried small shrooms will be a lot stronger than one big dried shroom of 5g.
So, pure weight is not everything.

 

[karlswitzerland]

ok, thanks for all, last night I've tried them with my friends, I ate somehing like 1.4g first time, and after 1h30 no really powerfull effects.I ate 0.8g more and after 45 mn more I was completely MINDFUCKED during 4h, awesome.

We will see at the 2nd flush, I will put more pictures, thanks

 

[HenkP]

I use a thermo mat, it is a kind of heating mat that keeps the temperature of the growkit @ 23-24 degrees. Just stick it to the ouside of the growbag.(not inside!) It works perfect. Still it takes 2 weeks for the mushrooms to start showing, but than they grow big. 120 grams in one flush. Got is @ ************************.com/en/thermo-mat.html.

 

[psymushroom]

hello did anyone know if i can cultivate mushrooms under a hps or metal halide lamp?
without sunlight at all? just from the lamp only, with 18 hours lighting per day?
can i have big and nice mushrooms with this way? or they need the shadowed sunlight room to grow as usual?
all my thoughts are because u never put the mushrooms to grow in direct sunlight so..
can they grow under the lamp?or the lamp will damage the shrooms? :roll: :?: :roll:

 

[Mycelian]

Mushrooms don't need the same degree of light that Cannabis does for growin'. I can't personally explain why.

The folks over on shroomery.org that I've seen setups for use regular flourescent lights, or compact flourescents for the smaller grows.

 

[peach]

Yep, you don't need that level of light.

Mushrooms mainly respond to blue light, so I've seen people using powerful blue LEDs; for a total amount of light that's way below something like a MH.

They use the light, mainly, to make sure they're growing straight up. If you grow them in the pitch black, they'll end up all stringy and horizontal; the same way seedlings will extend to far and be all over the place without a light source to grow towards.

If you start using HID lamps, you'll probably burn the living shit out of them.

 

[psymushroom]

i found on shroomery that i can cultivate mushrooms with no problem at all, with metal halide 100w lamp if the distance from mushrooms and light will be about 110cm...also using a fan for keeping the tempreture 20-25c
but the problem is that growers sujest to dont put the mushrooms above a radiator...
what they mean??what i must do?
leaving the mushrooms as it is directly down of the lamp or
put a piece of carton to make a tent for shadow to avoid the radiator goes on the shrooms but leave the light from the sides?
anyone does it here before??!!helppppp my shrooms maybe dying!!!!!! :axe:

 

[peach]

You don't need to buy a hydro light. If you have one around, fine. But don't buy one for the sake of it.

How's about getting a SAD fluorescent lamp? You can get those equivalent to something like 150 / 180w, they give out lots of blue and they don't get very hot at all.

You need your mushrooms no higher than about 28C when they're fruiting. In fact, that's too warm. You also don't want them too far below 20C. Adjust the settings to match where you live. If it's super hot all day, don't purposefully warm them up anymore. If it's really cold, check it's not something like 15 - 18C. If it is, warm them up a few degrees.

Don't put them on or too close to a radiator because the heat can be unpredictable. You could accidentally cook them if the boiler kicks in and starts baking the radiators.

I've grown cubenesis that were a good 6" or more tall, half an inch thick and vertical in a clear tub with a none transparent lid and them sitting in a fairly dim corner of the room. So long as there's some light hitting them, preferably from the sun, they'll do super. Be careful of leaving them in the sun if it's really blasting it down or, again, you'll overheat them.

 

[benzyme]

mushrooms need very little light, it supposedly acts as a pinning trigger (though fruits tend to grow towards the light).
there's a paper out there that mentions a 100-fold greater conc. of alks in fruits grown in total darkness as opposed to those exposed to light http://www.begellhouse.com/journals/708 ... 457df.html


on a side note, a dirty bird grew 8 and 9 inch fruits from a wild strain using a heating pad (medium setting) under an aquarium containing wet perlite, in darkness.
temp, humidity, fresh air exchange. light isn't much of a factor; for some odd reason, they just like to grow towards it

 

[Etherbunny]

Lets say I purchased a sterilized Rye grain substrate bag and inoculated it with viable Golden Teacher spores. If it has been 14-21 days and there is not full colonization happening ... other than contams what could possibly be wrong? Their environment has been sterile and the temp has been consistently around 80F and not above 86F. The bag was checked earlier last week and there was a large amount of humidity in the bag and life seemed to be thriving. Now just 5-8 days later, there are solid spots that established and not much dense distribution of the mycelium.

It may have been a mistake made earlier, the bag wasn't broken up or shaken on a periodic basis, just twice now in 5 days that can be vouched for. Also I have a temp gauge on it and it's last reading was 84F and 35% rh.

Here are some pictures of what may be going on. Look forward to your input.

These are the best I can take until I get my Digital Camera back from a vacationing friend. Thanks for taking a look.

Voir la pièce jointe 4463
Voir la pièce jointe 4464
Voir la pièce jointe 4465

 

[peach]

First port of call is contamination. Either by you or whoever made the bag or syringe. You can find colonies of psilocybe mixed in with contamination, the mycelium just won't advance into those regions. If you can't see mold growing in those regions, it's probably a bacterial contamination. Which you'll only see once it's been there a while. It'll look like spots of gunk on the grains and bag, and the grains may look like they're covered in something kind of sticky. Be careful opening those bags, because you've been incubating them close to blood temperature. Which = pathogenic possibilities. Plus, they absolutely stink. I'd do it outside, the smell is hard to get rid of and foul.

Next possibility, you've broken it up too fine. Sometimes being too hard on the mycelium makes it kind of give up and not recolonize.

Next... there may be something wrong with the rye. Crop suppliers can end up with literally tons of rye that they can't sell to the bakers because of the protein contents and things like that. Bag suppliers will tend to buy that because it's cheap. But it may also not work. The rye may have been overcooked when hydrating it. If the grains have split and you can see white carbohydrate from their insides, that's not a good sign. It's also possible there is too much water in the bag and the rye hasn't been allowed to drain properly before sealing. Another possibility is that the rye hasn't been rinsed properly, leaving sticky carbohydrate all over the outside of the grains. That will tend to cake up the media and the mycelium can't get through it.

I rarely check these separate forums, so a PM may be the easiest way to get in touch with me; although the PM system is having a hissy fit at the moment.

 

[Etherbunny]

Just a fast reply, heading out soon to see 'Get Him to the Greek' for a few laughs. The bag was only shaken once, right before the first post. Before that it was lightly pressed around, but nothing like the demonstration videos on You Tube for that type of bag.

The source is reliable, the spores are confirmed viable, I have seen contamination in quite a few different colonizing methods. Is it possible that during initial inoculation the lack of aeration (due to compression) delayed the growth of the colony? It was noted that strong white 'blotches' were penetrating to the bag line, but they were never shaken; nor spread around like portrayed in multiple 'credible' videos and guides. There is no excess slime or any other sign of contamination.

It cannot, however, be confirmed if the 'test' colony was exposed to 'terminal' heat. How long would the temperature have to last (ambient temp that is) in order to kill a seemingly establishing colony.

As a test the bag will be placed in a new area, avg 74.8F 40%rh, dark and not subject to major temperature variations.

So, if it's say ... 3 weeks in and your not lost to contamination, what would be the optimal Temp, Humidity, Light condition, and hell even what container is optimal for a non special built 'incubation chamber' test be?

Temp Range (Low- ) (High-
Humidity Goal (Low- ) (High-
Container:
Place to put it *Nothing fancy just stuff around a dorm room/college apartment.

Thanks, I won't spoil the movie. Promise.

Peace and love,

Etherbunny

 

[Etherbunny]

It does appear that a almost clear liquid has coated the lining of the bag. Well another one bites the dust.

 

[peach]

Yep, that could be the end of that bag. Annoying. I know. The only thing left to do would be to let it incubate for a while longer. But if you have other bags in the same incubator and they go to completion whilst this one remains in the same state, it's almost certainly fucked. One thing you can try is giving it an outdoor burial. I've shaken out contaminated jars into a plant pot. I lined it about half way full with bag soil, then added some twigs and things, sprinkled the dead jars in and covered with another inch or two of soil. I covered it with saran wrap and put it outside, since it was summer. I left it somewhere the sun wouldn't hit it. When I came back from holiday, I had a few small but decent strength mushrooms growing around the sides. Some of the things that'll contaminate indoor grows don't like being outside. E.g. that mold you get all over the surface of damp potted plants indoors usually disappears if you put them outside.

 

[peach]

In terms of a special incubator, just buy two tubs from the hardware store. Choose ones that aren't see through, black if possible, to keep the light out. Light during incubation isn't good. Fill one with a few inches of water, drop an aquarium heater in and slide the second tub into the first. Use new, clean tubs, and rinse them out with dilute bleach first. Don't play around with the bags. Inoculate the bags, put them in and leave them alone. Don't even open the tub other than every few weeks to see if they're colonizing. Don't pick them up and don't fuck around breaking the mycelium up. I'm not a fan of breaking up the mycelium at all. I've NEVER had things colonize quicker after breaking the myeclium. It works fine if you leave it to spread it's self. NEVER touch them without alcohol washed gloves on. You shouldn't need to touch them until you're ready to shake them out. Don't leave the tub lids open either. Open it, have a quick look, close it. Every time you open the lid, every second it's open for and every time you touch the bags you increase the risk of them failing.

 

[Etherbunny]

Yeah, I think this time I just got careless. I didn't follow any strict sterilization habits this go around. I've got the bins and stuff, I assumed (first mistake) that I had already made enough preparations to inoculate.

Now it's time for the science experiment to truly begin. Now I'll just let my imagination fly and see where it takes me.

BTW ... of the Cubes strains; personally which do you think gives the most powerful trip? Best I've tried were PF strain I tried overseas.

 

[peach]

Think about it like this. Do baby humans look like clones of their parents? Not often. There are two sexes involved there. There are species of mycelium that have 22,000 different sexes. You can draw your own conclusions about how consistent things like strength will be between prints. Strength will be heavily determined by what they're growing on, with soil and horse shit being prime candidates; but also harder to work with. The only consistency I've seen with regards to strength is that the more advanced growers tend to prefer panaeolus cyanescens on the old straw / poo mix. I've also heard that psilocybe azurescens and cyanescens can be extremely strong, but those are even harder than pan cyans. The psilocybe versions tend to grow on wood, and they don't like growing indoors. You usually need to bury the colonized wood in the garden and grow them like a patch, which can take a good while.

 

[Etherbunny]

My neighborhood is located right next to a major mycology department. That is one of the luxuries I have, a lot of experience and an endless supply of material. They grow everything, but don't 'directly' help out. I've put the bag up for awhile and won't be checking it for a good while, I'll be curious how it turns out in the end, it's isolated now so whatever is happening it's all alone now.

Would bird seed be a better substrate? I've done BRF, but Rye seems to temperamental. Just looking into options. Got some time to kill and some funds set away for times just like this.

**Edit I must say, the MDPV I tried earlier is really making getting motivated very easy. I know wrong channel, but had to mention (haven't slept in 2 day; due to insomnia) and I aced a 'skills' assessment for IT concepts I have NO experience w/.

Interesting work Dr. Shulgin. I am continually amazed.

Back to topic ... should I go full blown lab sterile this next bag? I could autoclave ... HEPA the airflow ... spend considerable time ensuring every square inch is sterile or just build a descent glovebox and give that a shot? I'm working my technique and confidence up to eventually start my truffle cultures I was able to procure. THOSE are hard to grow.