How to extract DMT (The Easy & low-cost way)

[madprossor]

i never said P. Viridis would not yield DMT by extraction. but i'm pretty sure it would cost at least 10x more per gram of yield than MHRB. plus it is full of chlorophyll which would traditionally be removed by the defat step of a standard A/B. so the TYPICAL utility of P. Viridis would be in ayahuasca brews (and not in chemical extractions.) the TYPICAL utility of MHRB would be in chemical extractions (and not in ayahuasca brews cause you'd puke right away).

yields of dmt (and dmt-n-oxide) from MHRB can range from 1-2%. the numbers were lower years ago because the traditional A/B resulted in substantial loss of product. i heard someone got 3%.

personally i have developed extraction methods for MHRB and Syrian Rue which scale better (in good yield and good quality with less labor) than the Teks currently posted as Authoritative on the DMT-nexus. i use about 1/6 the solvent volume as the Noman tek which results in less physical effort. i won't knock Noman- but his Tek gave me no separation and no product in a bucket the first (and only) time i ran it in quantity so I developed an improved variation out of necessity. and the Syrian Rue Teks on the Nexus still advise grinding the seeds. i advise against this based on my actual experience trying both ways. i didn't invent these methods but i did optimize them.

of course i'm glad that the Nexus is there! they definitely picked up the slack when DMT-World went down.

i guess the QT Extraction for Students is still at the top of the list at Erowid? (Someone should contact Erowid.) FYI it's probably the most labor intensive, frustrating, low-yielding, and prone-to-fail Tek that there is. if you want a reliable small-scale A/B- Marsofold has it just about right. (just wash your nonpolar and/or dry it, and skip the ammonia wash.)

if y'all were skilled in this art you might recognize that a tek which produces 42g+ of yellow powder dmt (max yield seen from freezer precip) (and some orange dmt also when the naptha is eventually recycled/concentrated) from 2.5kg rootbark using (3) one gallon extraction vessels in one evening with 30-60 minute separations is no joke. (get it done fast and lower your risks- holmes!)

if you need a full scaled-up A/B Tek i think i could mostly reconstruct mine from memory. notes have been scattered. i haven't run the A/B since '06 because i had no interest in producing half the yield as STB with 7x as much work.

btw there is nothing wrong with the advice that NaCl and heat will help break emulsions- it's true. however if you have created a particularly nasty emulsion it will not respond to any of the usual tricks.

(sorry if i steered anyone wrong with the 10% ammonia wash. i mentioned it only because it was Marsofold's method and i prefixed it with the word maybe.)

of course there is no one right way to extract dmt. and every kid with a gram that sparkles is now a master... ah well, i got to enjoy being called master prematurely some years ago myself. just make sure you aren't burning peoples throats to hell and sending them into dmt-space in pain and discomfort. no good master would do that!

 

[vibrancy3]

2B honest swim think this is a preety neat tek 4 a 1st timer who wants to extract dmt! like Madproffessor when you 1st gained interest in say extracting a certain chemical didn't you find it hard to understand some of the technical jargon people used.

(lke calling caustic soda NOAH or whatever term they use while trying to understand everything that sounds scientificy )

swim altererd this tek slighty to work well and not be complicated to read or put into practise as when swim 1st browsed these types of sites and saw the extractions they were way to long, had to many chemicals involved, was a complete mindfuck!

And then theres a compication of having way 2much dmt than u need. 1g shared with some friends on a weekend can give a fair few trips into hyperspace. swim would'nt say this is a normal tek 4 someone who produces it often. but swim had great success with this when 1st tried it apart from the odd emulsion (shaking the dmt shuffle way2hard 4 like 10mins duhhh, lol)

Some people (like swim) are not masters of extractions and chemical sythesis. And do just want it in plain simple english, this is whole reason this tek was posted. to avoid complication for people like swim who are intriguied in this chemical. all you need for this tek is cleanlyness, the extact measurements and to follow simple step by step guide to get an ok trip (plus it dont involve any fire and the original version of this tek was deleted another reason as 2 why this was posted)

To sum up why can't we have a simple tek 4 the 1st timers !!!!

 

[Teonanacapilli]

This sounds easier than the tek on erowid, can I use it with phalaris grass?

I agree Vibrancy3, for a newb (me) I don't care to learn all of these scientific names and shit before getting my DMT. People need to make these matters more simple so that anyone can do it, because everyone needs to do it. If we write teks in common-sense language, more simple, so that a baby can understand, then we can spread the knowledge better and DMT will be available to many more people. Or do we want to be elitist?

 

[IJesusChrist]

The deal with phalaris is the cell wall is much more robust, the freezing/refreezing technique is a MUST. soak your plant material in just enough water to cover the plant material, let is soak it up, put it in the freezer for a day, take it out to thaw, repeat 3+ times. Beyond that, you may also find it necessary to defat, where mimosa doesn't need it as much; after freezing/refreezing, put the mushy plant material in acid for a day, preferably warmer than room temp. Then move on with extraction.

 

[twoceebee]

About to start my first MHRB extraction today, and just had a quick question. Why is using a Sodium Carbonate solution better than using plain water to wash my DMT/Naptha solution prior to crystalising? I've been told it's to do with changing the PH, and therefore the solubility, of the DMT base in water, but have read elswhere that DMT base isn't soluble in water at all. Have I been mis-informed, or am I barking up the wrong tree? I've been told to use a "pinch" of Sodium Carbonate which makes my OCD cry. Maybe once I understand why I'm using it I can use an actual unit of measurement :lol:

I find reading these TEKs a bit tedious sometimes, as I'd like to understand why I'm doing something rather than just doing it. It makes the whole process more interesting and is helpful when something goes wrong, or if I don't have exactly the same equipment/chemicals. Dont get me wrong they have been great for getting me on the right path, and I find I only get round to asking these questions when I actually start doing something, instead of reading/talking about it!

Thanks for all the info so far, and wish me luck! Hope to see you all in hyperspace soon

 

[IJesusChrist]

Uhm... What I had thought is that you wash your crystals with the sodium bicarb after extraction, crystallization & washing... This will take out all of your NaOH if there is any left in the crystal structure.

But that may be ass backwards... sorry I'm not positive

 

[twoceebee]

Well what you said is what I got from most of the write-ups. But isn't it better to wash the solution of naphtha/dmt/impurities that you've extracted from the mess and then recrystalize the dmt from the washed naphtha? Still struggling to see the purpose of the the Sodium Carbonate too. I'm an absolute novice so sorry if im confusing the f@ck out of anyone :drinkers:

 

[endlessness]

dont wash with pure water and neither with sodium bicarbonate otherwise you might lose some dmt to the water. If you have dmt freebase in crystals, than they arent very soluble in water, in part because they dont have so much surface area exposed to the water, (try dissolving a lump of any substance in water as opposed to it spread out). This is the opposite when, say, dmt is dissolved in a solvent and it will all be very exposed to a wash.

Here's some good info

DMT's pka is 8.68. This means that at pH 8.68 50% is freebased. At pH 9.68 90% is freebased. At pH 10.68 99% is freebased. At pH 11.68 99.9% is freebased. At pH 12.68 99.99% is freebased.
Sodium carbonate can take the pH up to 11.5. So it can freebase close to 99.9% of all the DMT for each pull.

Pure water normally has much lower pH than that, meaning a significant amount of your dmt will be in water soluble form. Sodium bicarbonate only raises the water to around ph 9 if im not mistaken, which means you will still be losing some dmt.. Better use sodium carbonate for making the wash. You can transform sodium bicarbonate to carbonate easily by putting it in the oven on max for a couple of hours. Weigh it before, and weigh after, and it should have lost about a third of the weight when its done

 

[vibrancy3]

Yes it is quite an easy tek (similar to the one on erowid but not sooo complex)

Also swim found out recently that when it comes to the dmt shuffle, give it a swirl/roll instead of shake (shaking tends to create bubbles in the mixture which leads to those pesky emulsions we all hate)

And apparently replacing nathpha with either chloroform or ether can possibly greatly increase the potency of your dmt as other various compounds are released (jesuschrist might know something about that) swim would'nt try it 1st time through! after abit of experience maybe!

swim is soon 2 try and will post the feedback on what i got

 

[EndlessEntity]

as for emulsions - i had the same problem everyone else had - my solution more NAOH and/or setting it next to a space heater or giving it a hot water bath (the jar not the crystals lol)

as for cleaning NAOH out of DMT i would NOT use water reason being, suppose there is a tad bit of naphtha or whatever your nonpolar solvent is, say theres a tad bit coating your crystals but their fairly clean. water can mix with the naptha causing that brown aqueous goo that people encounter - i know this because i change oil at wallyworld hahah

as for adding salt or sodium bicarb or other shit i dont see the point. as the other guy said it would be much easier to clean your dmt containing solvent rather than clean the crystals themselves, if your worried about it do an extensive defatting. or pour more water into the whole solution to catch more NAOH? or even let it sit.
you can see the NAOH build up at the botom.
some people claim that NAOH can be trapped inside the crystals and be misted out with the dmt as a solid.
this doesnt seem likely to me because won't most of the NAOH be readily absorbed by water? needing a polar solvent unlike the dmt
i would like to try this 'jungle spice' but am doubtfull
if it has other chemicals in it wont that just block some of your receptors from dmt? thus nullifying the trip?

if any of this is wrong plz let me know. i only have a basic knowledge of chemistry

 

[vibrancy3]

Well some guy recently told swim that just sticking your final product in some acetone and letting it evaporate is a nice and simple way to clean your final product of any impurities!

(through bear in mind, you will loose part of your final product when cleaning with acetone)

Swim also heard a new method 4 freeze precip

Here is the info swim got told on alternative freeze precip method's >>>>>>>>

''I find the best way to get fast drying crystals is to use a jar for the freeze preciptitation. After you are satisfied witht the amount of crystals stuck to the sides, pour off your solvent and screw the lid back on. Next put your jar back in the fridge upside down for a couple hours to make sure your solvent drips out of your spice (this will maximise drying time as crystals are not as soaked with solvent). When you remove the jar from the freezer make sure to unscrew the cap with the jar still upside down or your solvent runs back into the goods. I then usually put the jar angled under a fan to dry them''

''if you slow the cooling process down you can grow some big beautiful crystals which are easy to flick off with a knife afterwards''

Swim think this is a good method to maximise your crytals, swim is currently getting 1.2g of NN-dmt of 100'g of root bark hopefully with this method can get it up to 1.5g's

This info was obtained from ''doingkermit'' of the DMT-nexus (he has also brung back swim's faith in the nexus after a certain somebody told me 1/2 cup of salt will stop the emulsions! pfffttttt just roll and swirl your soloution instead of shaking it init)

PeAcE....................

 

[itsscience]

Swim, thanks for posting this for newbees, most appreciated.

Can you or someone else please answer these questions for me:

1. This tek does not seem to require filtering out the plant material, it just seems you add your naptha to the solution of NaOH and plant material and then pippette up the naptha and freeze it. Is this correct or should I be filtering the plant material out of the NaOH and then adding naptha?

2. This tek talks about "filtering" naptha into the NaOH solution - is there any need to "filter" the naptha if you've got straight (or 100% naptha)?

Thanks

 

[EndlessEntity]

my friend does it Much differentely
my friend pulls mimosa extracts with water and muriatic acid, after 3 pulls which yield about 2-3 cups of homogenous maroon liquid he then adds warm naptha and slowly adds NaOH + water mixture until it turns all the way black, then adds a tad bit more. then swish it around a bit, if theres emulsions he adds more, then suck it up with a pipette and evap after it settles of course

 

[itsscience]

I'm trying the tek at the start of this thread on acaccia podalyriifolia bark. I note this tek doesn't have a defatting step, does anyone know how this will affect the final product? Will/could it ruin the end product? I'll report back the outcome if anyone is interested.

 

[IJesusChrist]

barks don't have much fat - they are mostly fibers. The little bit of cells and extractables are squiched in these fibers.

I can't say the yield you will get from acacia - I've never heard/read a success (or attempt). So it will be interesting what happens.

good luck report back.

 

[itsscience]

1st attempt = FAIL

I got a yellow, wax-like substance which looked similar to what Endless Entity says he/she gets when using limonene for extractions. It tasted like burning plastic when smoked and had no effect other than a drying of the throat. Some of the reading I have done suggests that what I got was NMT.

I'm now going to try a different tek and will report back.

 

[IJesusChrist]

First things first - you probably smoked DMT. DMT smells like plastic and burns the throat - I've never had non-harsh dmt, but some say its possible... long story.

Second things second - PLEASE CHECK YOUR SOLVENT! Poor a generous amount of solvent on a glass plate/window/something. See if there is a residue left over after it fully evaporates! You don't want to be smoking naptha as that will be doubly carcinogenic in that it burns to produce radicals.

Third, add more NaOH - LYE. Get pH paper if needed!

check back.

 

[itsscience]

I've given up and won't try again.

However, a friend of mine is going to give it a crack. He thinks that if he takes a much more scientific approach (i.e. doesn't be a penny pincher and actually buys a ph meter and some decent equipment, evaps off half the naptha before freezing etc) he may well have success. He says he's read teks that say yellow wax like substance is dmt with residuals such as lye, plant oils etc so he's going to try - he was with me when I tried the tiny bit I pulled and he says it would weigh probably 5mg or less and wouldn't have been enough to do the job anyway. He says I probably didn't put enough NaOH in the distilled water and so only pulled a tiny bit of dmt from the material. Lastly he thinks I made a mistake by blending up the bark while still fresh, he says strip bark when fresh, then let dry, then blend it up.

He's going to let me know how he goes with it and I'll report back.

 

[EndlessEntity]

1st attempt = FAIL

I got a yellow, wax-like substance which looked similar to what Endless Entity says he/she gets when using limonene for extractions. It tasted like burning plastic when smoked and had no effect other than a drying of the throat. Some of the reading I have done suggests that what I got was NMT.

I'm now going to try a different tek and will report back.

you can also get this yellow shit with naphtha. i think the deal with that is that a TINY bit of naptha might get trapped under the crystals, so when u scoop em up with the razor you might wanna let them dry at a New angle
alot of times the yellow shit will melt and after taking it out of freezer its a pale yellow slug.
this yellow mess can be avoided by Freeze precip but evap is WAY faster and less tedious.

 

[vibrancy3]

I've given up and won't try again.

However, a friend of mine is going to give it a crack. He thinks that if he takes a much more scientific approach (i.e. doesn't be a penny pincher and actually buys a ph meter and some decent equipment, evaps off half the naptha before freezing etc) he may well have success. He says he's read teks that say yellow wax like substance is dmt with residuals such as lye, plant oils etc so he's going to try - he was with me when I tried the tiny bit I pulled and he says it would weigh probably 5mg or less and wouldn't have been enough to do the job anyway. He says I probably didn't put enough NaOH in the distilled water and so only pulled a tiny bit of dmt from the material. Lastly he thinks I made a mistake by blending up the bark while still fresh, he says strip bark when fresh, then let dry, then blend it up.

He's going to let me know how he goes with it and I'll report back.

I take it you have given up on the tek? i'm sorry ot hear but this tek is written out step by step and is one of the easies STB teks there is (and i'm not organic chemist)

if u follow each step right, you will get ok nn-dmt, if u perfect it u get white nn-dmt

PeAcE