How to extract DMT (The Easy & low-cost way)
- Auteur de la discussion IJesusChrist
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Jahvisions
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My mistake, of course naphta is more NON-polar is what I ment, that is sound with the hyposthesis that the most non-polar solvent would most easily dissolve a non-polar substance.
I think that high quality bark can have up tp 2%, at least I think I've read such results sometimes.
I think naphta is preffereble for sure of ether, first if you do a good filtration, defat and warm the solvents you have no emulsions, at least I never had problems with it,
second why should I want to extract more stuff like dmt-N-oxide to convert it later as I can do a very selective extraction on nn-dmt with naphta?
Third-ether is a fucking dangerous solvent to play with, it is havier the air and will fire easily, secondly when storing it form peroxides which can explode almost spontanously.
I think that high quality bark can have up tp 2%, at least I think I've read such results sometimes.
I think naphta is preffereble for sure of ether, first if you do a good filtration, defat and warm the solvents you have no emulsions, at least I never had problems with it,
second why should I want to extract more stuff like dmt-N-oxide to convert it later as I can do a very selective extraction on nn-dmt with naphta?
Third-ether is a fucking dangerous solvent to play with, it is havier the air and will fire easily, secondly when storing it form peroxides which can explode almost spontanously.
IJesusChrist
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leave diethyl ether to the chemists :lol:
I think I got everything I wanted out of this thread - thanks guys. The rest is experiment
I think I got everything I wanted out of this thread - thanks guys. The rest is experiment
timespace
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Sure it depends if you want just the DMT it's better to use a solvent like naphta.
However extracting DMT N-oxide can help you have better yields if you can convert it to DMT.
But yeah I understand why people tend prefer naphta.
And I won't argue that ether is really dangerous. You have to know how to handle your solvents
EDIT: yeah thats probably why I AM a chemist. Love dangerous stuff
However extracting DMT N-oxide can help you have better yields if you can convert it to DMT.
But yeah I understand why people tend prefer naphta.
And I won't argue that ether is really dangerous. You have to know how to handle your solvents
EDIT: yeah thats probably why I AM a chemist. Love dangerous stuff
IJesusChrist
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timespace a dit:Sure it depends if you want just the DMT it's better to use a solvent like naphta.
However extracting DMT N-oxide can help you have better yields if you can convert it to DMT.
But yeah I understand why people tend prefer naphta.
And I won't argue that ether is really dangerous. You have to know how to handle your solvents
EDIT: yeah thats probably why I AM a chemist. Love dangerous stuff
I'll be there too - right now my beakers and flasks are just salsa jars and sobe bottles :?
I think you get the same results with toluene or chloroform - you will bring over 'jungle spice' which is a red/blood colored crystal very active some say stronger than DMT - which was said earlier in this discussion.
So - my hypothesis is more polar the solvent, more alkaloids you'd pull over.
How would you seperate N-Oxide dmt from nn, or would you just run both under 1 reaction to have 1 product of nn?
timespace
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no you don't need to separate them.
read this, may be interesting for you: http://forums.mycotopia.net/botanicals- ... n-dmt.html
read this, may be interesting for you: http://forums.mycotopia.net/botanicals- ... n-dmt.html
IJesusChrist
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:!: thnx
madprossor
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hi,
if you look in Tihkal Shulgin does a workup of dmt using DCM and finds that 3% of his product is now 2-Methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-b-carboline. i don't have facilities for an extensive test, but i think chlorinated solvents could degrade dmt into this, or some kind of betacarboline. this could even make the dmt stronger, who knows. some rootbark which sat in a hot car trunk in august yielded much less yellow dmt crystal than normal on freezer precip. but when the naptha was concentrated down to 10% a very large yield of orange dmt was obtained (mostly the n-oxide perhaps). it was solid, but slightly sticky. it was strong, stronger than the yellow i think, or maybe a bit longer lived. people liked it alot. an evil shaman was envious of it.
i have some prejudice against dcm because it gave me a wicked emulsion a long time ago. but that was on an aqueous solution from rootbark that was boiled excessively, a big no-no.
i used to do an extraction of powdered MHRB into water titurated to pH4 with HCl at 60C. after straining the bark the water was allowed to settle, the top layer decanted from sludge, concentrated by boiling, then allowed to cool and settle again, and finally vacuum filtered through celite. obtaining a solution free of particles surely expedited the following extraction. defats with xylene and naptha were done. then 40-50% warm NaOH solution was added. and the product extracted 3x with naptha while the solution was warm.
freezer precipitation gave product of excellent quality, with very little yellow color. yields were on the low side 1% maybe. but at that time .57% was the published literature value, so 1% was considered a good yield.
but the amount of work was excessive. using the STB i can get near 2% yields, and i prepare the same amount of dmt in 3 days that i could in a month before using half as much rootbark. the yellow color can be cleaned by recrystallization if desired. 4 recrystallizations would make it white. but only half the product improves in quality usually (the top half), the lower half gets worse. still, even without recrystallization the product is a solid powder, not sticky, and smokes well (if you remove the base).
what i am really excited about is using fumaric acid saturated acetone to instantly turn this crude yellow dmt crystal into fluffy fumarate salts, allowing all the impurities to be sucked away on the vacuum filter. this could make for an excellent purification.
or maybe we can dispense with nonpolar solvents altogether and extract with alcohol or even acetone, using a soxhlet if desired, and then clean the product easily by precipitating it as the fumarate.
simple alcohol extraction gives a yellow oil IIRC which is perfectly active. but an oil has a lower market value than crystals, is hard to handle, and probably oxidizes more quickly also. i think it is only popular in australia where they cannot import any dmt-containing plants like MHRB. they use alcohol to infuse dmt from local acacia species into a smoking blend called changa. i've never been able to try it. the acacia species contain 5-meo-dmt also, and possibly other things, making changa probably the most powerful and also lowest tech dmt-smoking preparation around.
the optimal amount of NaOH for a STB is almost half the weight of the MHRB. for me this is $.60 worth of base and $60 worth of MHRB, so there is no reason to skimp on the base.
i have a simple STB tek. i guarantee good yields with very easy to get materials. it uses a metal naptha can as the extraction vessel. which is cool when the can doesn't rust. but sometimes it rusts, you can clean the rust from your nonpolar by drying it repeatedly but it sucks.
mix one pound NaOH into 2 liters water. dissolve the NaOH then add 200g NaCl iodine-free and dissolve that. put 800g powdered MHRb into the gallon metal can (a one gallon glass mason jar just does not work as well, fuck if i know why). then add the 2 liters of NaOH/NaCl solution. shake the can end-over-end until all the MHRB is wetted and homogenized.
put the can in a hot water bath where the water is 2/3 the height of the can (visible steam on the surface of the water). you could even use a gas stove if you had to, just make sure the cans are not leaking lots of vapors, and don't pour hot naptha anywhere near the stove.
let the NaOH digest the powdered rootbark about 15-30 minutes, shaking the can every 15 minutes. then add 1 liter naptha. turn the can end-over-end, stopping occasionally to loosen the cap and vent pressure. there should be some pressure to vent, otherwise the solution is not hot enough and you will get crap yields. turn it end-over-end 100 times.
put the can on the water bath and wait 30 to 60 minutes. pour off approximately 800ml of naptha into a quart jar. extract 2-3 more times with another 800ml naptha. to you hot naptha extract add 1-2 tablespoons MgSO4 and seal the jar for 30 minutes. filter the epsoms and put the naptha in quart (or gallon) jars in the freezer for at least 24 hours to precipitate the dmt. don't mix the different extractions together, precipitate them separately.
remove the jars from the freezer, and gently invert them to pour off the naptha. the crystals will stick to the glass. when you are tired of watching the naptha drip, put the jar in front of a fan. the crystals can then be easily scraped off the glass with a knife. yields as high as 14g from 800g MHRB have been realized. the shape and dynamics of the can and running it right on the edge of too hot gives excellent yields.
if you want you can recycle your naptha easily using a still, and precipitate more orange dmt after concentrating the solution. i suggest a continuous addition still.
if you look in Tihkal Shulgin does a workup of dmt using DCM and finds that 3% of his product is now 2-Methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-b-carboline. i don't have facilities for an extensive test, but i think chlorinated solvents could degrade dmt into this, or some kind of betacarboline. this could even make the dmt stronger, who knows. some rootbark which sat in a hot car trunk in august yielded much less yellow dmt crystal than normal on freezer precip. but when the naptha was concentrated down to 10% a very large yield of orange dmt was obtained (mostly the n-oxide perhaps). it was solid, but slightly sticky. it was strong, stronger than the yellow i think, or maybe a bit longer lived. people liked it alot. an evil shaman was envious of it.
i have some prejudice against dcm because it gave me a wicked emulsion a long time ago. but that was on an aqueous solution from rootbark that was boiled excessively, a big no-no.
i used to do an extraction of powdered MHRB into water titurated to pH4 with HCl at 60C. after straining the bark the water was allowed to settle, the top layer decanted from sludge, concentrated by boiling, then allowed to cool and settle again, and finally vacuum filtered through celite. obtaining a solution free of particles surely expedited the following extraction. defats with xylene and naptha were done. then 40-50% warm NaOH solution was added. and the product extracted 3x with naptha while the solution was warm.
freezer precipitation gave product of excellent quality, with very little yellow color. yields were on the low side 1% maybe. but at that time .57% was the published literature value, so 1% was considered a good yield.
but the amount of work was excessive. using the STB i can get near 2% yields, and i prepare the same amount of dmt in 3 days that i could in a month before using half as much rootbark. the yellow color can be cleaned by recrystallization if desired. 4 recrystallizations would make it white. but only half the product improves in quality usually (the top half), the lower half gets worse. still, even without recrystallization the product is a solid powder, not sticky, and smokes well (if you remove the base).
what i am really excited about is using fumaric acid saturated acetone to instantly turn this crude yellow dmt crystal into fluffy fumarate salts, allowing all the impurities to be sucked away on the vacuum filter. this could make for an excellent purification.
or maybe we can dispense with nonpolar solvents altogether and extract with alcohol or even acetone, using a soxhlet if desired, and then clean the product easily by precipitating it as the fumarate.
simple alcohol extraction gives a yellow oil IIRC which is perfectly active. but an oil has a lower market value than crystals, is hard to handle, and probably oxidizes more quickly also. i think it is only popular in australia where they cannot import any dmt-containing plants like MHRB. they use alcohol to infuse dmt from local acacia species into a smoking blend called changa. i've never been able to try it. the acacia species contain 5-meo-dmt also, and possibly other things, making changa probably the most powerful and also lowest tech dmt-smoking preparation around.
the optimal amount of NaOH for a STB is almost half the weight of the MHRB. for me this is $.60 worth of base and $60 worth of MHRB, so there is no reason to skimp on the base.
i have a simple STB tek. i guarantee good yields with very easy to get materials. it uses a metal naptha can as the extraction vessel. which is cool when the can doesn't rust. but sometimes it rusts, you can clean the rust from your nonpolar by drying it repeatedly but it sucks.
mix one pound NaOH into 2 liters water. dissolve the NaOH then add 200g NaCl iodine-free and dissolve that. put 800g powdered MHRb into the gallon metal can (a one gallon glass mason jar just does not work as well, fuck if i know why). then add the 2 liters of NaOH/NaCl solution. shake the can end-over-end until all the MHRB is wetted and homogenized.
put the can in a hot water bath where the water is 2/3 the height of the can (visible steam on the surface of the water). you could even use a gas stove if you had to, just make sure the cans are not leaking lots of vapors, and don't pour hot naptha anywhere near the stove.
let the NaOH digest the powdered rootbark about 15-30 minutes, shaking the can every 15 minutes. then add 1 liter naptha. turn the can end-over-end, stopping occasionally to loosen the cap and vent pressure. there should be some pressure to vent, otherwise the solution is not hot enough and you will get crap yields. turn it end-over-end 100 times.
put the can on the water bath and wait 30 to 60 minutes. pour off approximately 800ml of naptha into a quart jar. extract 2-3 more times with another 800ml naptha. to you hot naptha extract add 1-2 tablespoons MgSO4 and seal the jar for 30 minutes. filter the epsoms and put the naptha in quart (or gallon) jars in the freezer for at least 24 hours to precipitate the dmt. don't mix the different extractions together, precipitate them separately.
remove the jars from the freezer, and gently invert them to pour off the naptha. the crystals will stick to the glass. when you are tired of watching the naptha drip, put the jar in front of a fan. the crystals can then be easily scraped off the glass with a knife. yields as high as 14g from 800g MHRB have been realized. the shape and dynamics of the can and running it right on the edge of too hot gives excellent yields.
if you want you can recycle your naptha easily using a still, and precipitate more orange dmt after concentrating the solution. i suggest a continuous addition still.
IJesusChrist
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Would the solid than be discarded, the liquid evapd, and the salts be crystalized?
And WOO! The ending I am excited about : recycling naptha
! Totally didn't occur to me until then! saves alot of time, money and suspision!
madprossor
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IJesusChrist a dit:
fumaric acid is one of the only acids that will salt dmt nicely. (picric acid is the other one but this is an explosive and not for sale usually.) these are the only salts that are mentioned much in the scientific literature as crystalline solids with definite melting points. the hydrochloride can be prepared in solution by tituration for IV use, but it does not form nice crystals even under a dessicator.
i haven't tried fumaric yet myself, but the information has been widely circulating on the net for the last 9 months or so that dmt fumarate is nicely precipitated from a solution of dmt and fumaric acid in acetone. often this is accomplished by adding FASA "fumaric acid saturated acetone" to a solution of dmt in acetone.
and of course all the impurities are massively soluble in acetone. so this could make for a perfect purification method, much expedient than recrystallizing repeatedly exploiting the varying solubility curves of dmt versus impurities based on changing temperature slowly. it would be parallel to the standard practice of purifying various phenethylamines by precipitating them from nonpolar solution by addition of HCl(g), filtering the crystals, and then washing the filter cake with a bit of ice-cold acetone to "whiten" it up. (of course, yes you are "supposed" to vaccum distill your freebase phenethylamines before salting them. but in practice a 98% pure freebase can made into nice white crystals which are basically "human grade" simply by gassing and washing the crystals. a recrystallization afterward could probably produce as good a final result as distillation, but often this is skipped if the color is deemed acceptable.)
IJesusChrist a dit:And WOO! The ending I am excited about : recycling naptha
naptha is really easy to distill at atmospheric pressure because the boiling point is low, but not as low as DCM which is hard to condense completely. i like to use water cooled copper tubing as a condensor for naptha. but there are many options.
i find naptha can be distilled nicely without magnetic stirring by addition of some ceramic chips. (with xylene on the other hand it really helps to have magnetic stirring.) a waterbath is no good, you want an oilbath at least 40C hotter than the boiling point of your solvent. a mantle or flat-bottom flask on a hotplate, is fine also.
evaporating naptha away is silly on a large scale. industry would never do it that way. after evaporating a liter or two i was totally annoyed with the concept of having that many naptha fumes indoors with no fumehood (even with that room sealed and a window open), or of placing a tray of growing dmt crystals and a fan somewhere in the backyard (looking like some deranged tweaker). also by 2004-5 everyone was talking about freezer-precipitating dmt for the best purity anyway. i always find it so funny that out of ALL these dmt teks out there- to this day not a single one talks about how to distill naptha (except yours truly). this is modern lab practice- recycle your solvents, etc. the advantages of recycling are obvious and numerous. simple distillation also nicely removes the blue dye from that blue naptha that is more widely available and cheaper than other brands.
if i ran a still all day i could probably distill 10 gallons of naptha, with minimal effort. the dmt freebase/n-oxide/whatever in solution does not seem to be harmed to be in boiling naptha for some 6 or 12 hours. loose observations indicate that this amount of heat for this long does not change the composition.
i never evaporate any naptha extract all the way to dryness now. i just concentrate the naptha down 10:1 or 20:1, then freezer-precipitate again. eventually the 10x concentrate is concentrated again to make 100x, and again freezer-precipitated. weird sacks of funky orange shit are accumulated, when you run out of everything else you can give it to people as gifts and see what they think of it. weird alkaloids have sometimes appeared in the 100x- little spherical brown balls were precipitated once. smoking these "little brown balls" with some white dmt, DEFINITELY increased and changed the effect. perhaps they have MAOI activity. maybe someday someone will help me identify them, i should have saved some for HPLC... sheesh...
man, there are a lot of teks out there. but if you just want to process 800 or 833g MHRB quickly, efficiently, and easily into a solid crystalline product there is nothing as simple and direct as my metal can tek. it was based on Noman's tek and the 2005 Entheogen Review article "Dmt for the Masses." but i tried that procedure and while i had success at a small scale in a 40oz beer bottle of all things in a parking lot of all places, it DID NOT WORK PROPERLY in a bucket nothing but emulsion. and so the metal can tek was created, and it works much better. various people have wanted me to keep it a secret over the years- they all suck! one more thing, a little bit of sludge will dribble out when you pour the hot yellow naptha from the can into a jar. just decant your naptha from this sludge, then proceed to dry with epsoms and freezer-precip. there is a technique used to pour without spilling. it involves holding the can from the bottom using a cloth to protect your hand from the heat. the can is turned so that the spout is at the higest point possible when first pouring. you'll figure it out from there. peace. i was just reading Tihkal today. Shulgin notes that he makes psychedelics to help restore the balance of Eros against Thanatos in humanity. oh yeah! that's what i'm doing here too... i demand the cessation of all wars of aggression or acts of government aggression against innocents- including the drug war. when that occurs maybe then we can stop the civil disobedience. until then- no fucking way!
endlessness
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you can salt out your dmt from non polar solvents in many ways.. You could with acetic acid (vinegar) and then evaporate but dmt acetate is a goo.. you could also do a FASW (fumaric acid saturated water) wash on the solvent and evap that to get dmt fumarate and some fumaric acid contamination.. IPA wash will dissolve fumaric acid and not the fumarates, or redissolving in small amounts of water will pick up the fumarates and not the fumaric acid
if you are using limonene, you can precipitate your fumarates straight out of limonene by mixing it with FASI (Fumaric acid saturated IPA ) .. Then to reuse limo, wash it with plain water which will pick up the IPA and clean the limo.. Im not sure if FASI would work on naphtha too, limonene is much nicer to work with anyways
your fumarates can be easily converted to freebase by making paste with sodium carbonate, dry, and pull with IPA or ethanol, or with small amounts of water that should pick up sodium carbonate and sodium fumarate left overs from the reaction and leave the dmt freebase behind
if you are using limonene, you can precipitate your fumarates straight out of limonene by mixing it with FASI (Fumaric acid saturated IPA ) .. Then to reuse limo, wash it with plain water which will pick up the IPA and clean the limo.. Im not sure if FASI would work on naphtha too, limonene is much nicer to work with anyways
your fumarates can be easily converted to freebase by making paste with sodium carbonate, dry, and pull with IPA or ethanol, or with small amounts of water that should pick up sodium carbonate and sodium fumarate left overs from the reaction and leave the dmt freebase behind
IJesusChrist
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So the reason to turn these into salts is stability??
You can't use pure fumarate (or any) salts right? You must convert them back to freebase, right???
I'm just learning this salt chemistry.
You can't use pure fumarate (or any) salts right? You must convert them back to freebase, right???
I'm just learning this salt chemistry.
madprossor
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thanks for the info timeless. what is the color and quality of the dmt fumarate that you precipitate directly from limonene or naptha? did you do a full A/B first, or just a STB?
i was more interested in salting the dmt as a purification method. i don't have much problem with dmt degrading over time. although forming big solid crystals of it would surely help protect it from oxidation.
i was more interested in salting the dmt as a purification method. i don't have much problem with dmt degrading over time. although forming big solid crystals of it would surely help protect it from oxidation.
endlessness
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ijesus, yeah dmt salts can be used for oral administration, not for vaporization...
dmt fumarate is light yellow and a bit more waxy than clean freebase dmt
both STBs and A/Bs were done with no noticeable difference
dmt fumarate should be stable enough to not oxidate at all
BTW, sometimes it happens that when one starts adding the FASI, the solvent clouds up but instead of crystal precipitation, there is a goo that forms on the bottom of the container.. This is no problem, its just water (usually happens if your IPA is not perfectly dry).. Separate the limonene and put the goo to finish drying in a dish or something and it should crystalize no problem.
just to clarify, to freebase the fumarates, one makes a paste with a bit of water and sodium carbonate, and then after drying the paste, to get the freebase, one can choose to either pick up the goodies with IPA/alcohol, or pick up the non-goodies with bit of water.
and madprossor.. yeah salting can be used as a clean up step but if one is using naphtha, I think the most efficient way of cleaning up is recrystalization.
Freebase dmt that is yielded from converting fumarates that were salted from limonene is different than naphtha-extracted dmt.. The limonene picks up a minor amount of a secondary alkaloid (check the nexus, chromatography work has been done on this), and also potentially the active dmt n-oxide and maybe a bit of plant oils. It is more waxy and yellowish, but let me be the one to say here that it seems to be stronger than dmt (I need about 30mg to breakthrough while with white/translucent recrystalized crystals I need more like 50mg). I suspect it is in big part because of the oils that coat and protect the dmt, making for a more efficient vaporization
dmt fumarate is light yellow and a bit more waxy than clean freebase dmt
both STBs and A/Bs were done with no noticeable difference
dmt fumarate should be stable enough to not oxidate at all
BTW, sometimes it happens that when one starts adding the FASI, the solvent clouds up but instead of crystal precipitation, there is a goo that forms on the bottom of the container.. This is no problem, its just water (usually happens if your IPA is not perfectly dry).. Separate the limonene and put the goo to finish drying in a dish or something and it should crystalize no problem.
just to clarify, to freebase the fumarates, one makes a paste with a bit of water and sodium carbonate, and then after drying the paste, to get the freebase, one can choose to either pick up the goodies with IPA/alcohol, or pick up the non-goodies with bit of water.
and madprossor.. yeah salting can be used as a clean up step but if one is using naphtha, I think the most efficient way of cleaning up is recrystalization.
Freebase dmt that is yielded from converting fumarates that were salted from limonene is different than naphtha-extracted dmt.. The limonene picks up a minor amount of a secondary alkaloid (check the nexus, chromatography work has been done on this), and also potentially the active dmt n-oxide and maybe a bit of plant oils. It is more waxy and yellowish, but let me be the one to say here that it seems to be stronger than dmt (I need about 30mg to breakthrough while with white/translucent recrystalized crystals I need more like 50mg). I suspect it is in big part because of the oils that coat and protect the dmt, making for a more efficient vaporization
Jahvisions
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If you keep the freebase airtight in the freezer it will fine for a very long time.
madprossor
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it's funny, with other drugs purity is so important for a pure psychedelic experience... but with dmt extracts (from mimosa and acacia, perhaps other species as well?), there is more at work than one compound (although let me say pure white dmt is very nice and plenty special). there is a significant market segment that now prefers the sticky orange dmt above the lighter colored crystals and has for years, almost always it is touted as "stronger." (why it has to be stronger than 95-something% pure yellow dmt powder which already rocks my world, it's hard to say). then there is the red or jungle spice, which i think i have never seen from a STB extraction... perhaps acidic extraction helps form the red jungle compound? i have wondered for awhile if maybe refluxing some clean dmt in aqueous HCl for a bit could increase potency. experiment is king.
DMT 20.M EXTRACTION RECIPE
Hey everyone,
EDIT: 22/03/11 As we all know Mimosa Hostills (what was used for this original tek has gone and probably will not be making a comeback to the U.K) A new source has quickly emerged called ''Acacia Confusa' which has similar qualitys to Mimosa (SWIM has only just started re-modifying this tek to work with Acacia, SWIM is still in the experiemtning stage and are yet to perfect this technique to get maximum yeild, hopefully over the coming months SWIM will update it with any tips and tricks like SWIM did when this tek was made for mimosa)
Anyone outside the U.K who wishes to use this tek for Mimosa Hostills (very good tek when used with Mimosa, swim mangaed to produce almost 0.3g out of 20g when perfecting the technique) it's preety much exactly the same as this tek only it does not involve the ''defat stage'' anyway here is the link to the original tek >>>>
http://www.mediafire.com/?lfw7dg6we18506g
This method is really easy, cost effective and only requires as little as 50g Acacia Confusa Root Bark to start with!
Anyway here is the procedure >>>>>>>>
DMT 20.M EXTRACTION RECIPE
List of Ingredients & Apparatus >>>>>
Ingredients.....
1.Sodium Hydroxide i.e. Caustic Soda (aka Lye)
(minimum of 5g 4 extracting 20g of acacia confusa root bark)
2.Naphtha (Ronsonol Lighter Fluid / Newport Lighter Fluid 4 Zippos or a similar type)
3.Tap water
4 Acacia Confusa Root bark (20g minimum extraction)http://www.botanicalspirit.com/?aref=3740 http://www.mh-uk.net/page34/page2/page2.html
Apparatus.....
1.568ml vinegar bottle (can be found @ any Supermarket, Sainsbury's do vinegar bottles like these for only 10-20p)
2.12inch Plastic Pipettes (Found on Ebay)
3.Dust Mask (Found on Ebay)
4.Eye goggles (Found on Ebay)
5. 2 Glass McCartney Jars (I use big glass Pill Bottles) (Found @ Any Chemist store)
6.Small Glass Baking dish (Found at any Supermarkets or convenience store)
7.Glass Millie-litre Measuring Jug (Found@ Any Supermarket)
8.Filters (to carefully pour in your ingredients!) (Found @ Any Supermarket or Discount Store)
9.2 Razor Blades (razor blade used for stanley knifes are ideal)
1.Take your glass vinegar bottle and make shure it is washed thoroughly throughout.
2.Now Measure 200ml of water in your glass measuring jug and pour this into your vinegar bottle with one of your filters.
3 If you have a strong blender, powder down the Acacia Confusa bark so it has a wider surface area. I use a 600w philips blender which does the job! (dont worry if you don't own a blender you can get away with using just shreeded bark)
4.Filter in approximately 20g of (powdered or shreeded) Acacia Confusa Bark into your bottle, and give a vigourous shake to strip down the bark (it should look like slightly red)
5.Now store this solution in a dark, undisturbed part of your working area at room temperature overnight! (I use my bedroom cabinet and would store for 24hours, shaking every now 4-6hours)
6.Once 24 hours has passed will now need to perform a defat
7.Measure out 50ml of Naphtha with your measuring Jug and then continue to add this to your vinegar bottle using one of your small filters
8.Start shaking your solution for around 4-6 minutes (from what i have learnt the defat removes the unwanted alkaloids, so be sure to give it a ruddy good shake)
9.Start running a hot water bath @ 60c (You may be limited to your resources! So SWIM used a sink with the hot water tap which was filled up to the top with the hottest water it could produce. This came out to around 45c – 51c which is satisfactory)
10.Place your solution in the hot water bath (this does help speed up the process of the defat, after around 30 - 60 mins, both layers will have sperated)
11.Using your pipette python out the top layer of naphtha and store in one of your plastic pill bottle (make sure to name it something like ''defat bottle'' and eventually dispose ofit in the right way!)
12.Repeat steps 7 to 11 one more time
13.Now you have finished the defat stage, Measure out 5g of caustic soda and to add to your solution using a filter (remember to use googles, gloves and dusk mask when dealing with caustic soda, if u dont and get it on your hands it hurts, i know you heard it billion times, BUT MAINTAIN SAFETY!!!)
14.Give the bottle a shake, it will turn from dark red to dark black
(The next procedure is exactly like the defat, only we will use our solvent to remove the NN-DMT from the bark)
15.Measure out 50ml of Naphtha with your measuring Jug and then continue to add this to your vinegar bottle using one of your small filters
16.Start running another hot water bath and place the bottle in your hot water bath for 30 minutes
17.After 30minutes have passed, take your solution and give it a shake for 2-4 minutes (being careful not to create any froth on top of your solution, this is called ''emulsions'' which stops the seperation of the solvent on top from the soupy liquid below)
18.Now run another hot water bath and place your solutuion init, waiting for around 1-2 hours (or how ever long until the 2 layers have seperated)
19.After a couple hours, the layers will have seperated, Using your pipette python out the top layer of naphtha and store in your other glass pill bottle (this is the sovlent that contains your dmt)
20.Repeat steps 15 - 19 another 2 times
21.Now get your glass baking dish and pour the dmt into the dish (making sure no soupy dark liquid is in the solvent)
22.Place your glass baking dish in the freezer for 24 hours
23.Remove your glass baking dish and python of the remaining solvent while being careful not to python up any of the white crystals (the remaining solvent can be stored for use again in steps 15-19)
24.Place your dish in a cool dark area i use my bedroom cabinet with a vinyl record case placed on top so no oxygen or light gets to the crystals (you will notice if you crystals have prolonged exposure to light and air they will become orangey / yellow)
25.After the crystals have fully dried, use a razor blade to scrape up the crystals and store within a clean new dodgy bag (i would store this dodgy bag within another 2 dodgy bags within 2 boxes stored in a dark area)
NOTES: SWIM has found from extracting 20g of Acacia Confusa using this tek swim can produce a yeild of 0.1g (100mg) of white-ish pure NN-DMT xtals, swim has noticed and from others experiences that acacia is slightly more stronger than mimosa, this might be down to another present alkaloid in the acacia called ''NMT'' (even thruogh its present in mimosa aswell)
Allthrough NN-DMT extracted from Acacia is slightly more powerful the downside is that you only get 0.1g from 20g bark extraction, as apose to mimosa in which you could produce 0.2g from 20g bark extraction. If anyone out there using this tek and getting better results than swim, please pm swim so can incorparate your method into the tek.
If you have any doughts about this or questions, please read this thread before you create a new one or reply, it might be of a help to you http://psychonaut.com/post-42342-288148.html?f=36#p288148
Finally any questions people have, please feel free to ask! SWIM has tried to make this tek as simple as possible aswell as including lots of detail and step by step instructions, Good luck and Godspeed..........
Hey everyone,
EDIT: 22/03/11 As we all know Mimosa Hostills (what was used for this original tek has gone and probably will not be making a comeback to the U.K) A new source has quickly emerged called ''Acacia Confusa' which has similar qualitys to Mimosa (SWIM has only just started re-modifying this tek to work with Acacia, SWIM is still in the experiemtning stage and are yet to perfect this technique to get maximum yeild, hopefully over the coming months SWIM will update it with any tips and tricks like SWIM did when this tek was made for mimosa)
Anyone outside the U.K who wishes to use this tek for Mimosa Hostills (very good tek when used with Mimosa, swim mangaed to produce almost 0.3g out of 20g when perfecting the technique) it's preety much exactly the same as this tek only it does not involve the ''defat stage'' anyway here is the link to the original tek >>>>
http://www.mediafire.com/?lfw7dg6we18506g
This method is really easy, cost effective and only requires as little as 50g Acacia Confusa Root Bark to start with!
Anyway here is the procedure >>>>>>>>
DMT 20.M EXTRACTION RECIPE
List of Ingredients & Apparatus >>>>>
Ingredients.....
1.Sodium Hydroxide i.e. Caustic Soda (aka Lye)
(minimum of 5g 4 extracting 20g of acacia confusa root bark)
2.Naphtha (Ronsonol Lighter Fluid / Newport Lighter Fluid 4 Zippos or a similar type)
3.Tap water
4 Acacia Confusa Root bark (20g minimum extraction)http://www.botanicalspirit.com/?aref=3740 http://www.mh-uk.net/page34/page2/page2.html
Apparatus.....
1.568ml vinegar bottle (can be found @ any Supermarket, Sainsbury's do vinegar bottles like these for only 10-20p)
2.12inch Plastic Pipettes (Found on Ebay)
3.Dust Mask (Found on Ebay)
4.Eye goggles (Found on Ebay)
5. 2 Glass McCartney Jars (I use big glass Pill Bottles) (Found @ Any Chemist store)
6.Small Glass Baking dish (Found at any Supermarkets or convenience store)
7.Glass Millie-litre Measuring Jug (Found@ Any Supermarket)
8.Filters (to carefully pour in your ingredients!) (Found @ Any Supermarket or Discount Store)
9.2 Razor Blades (razor blade used for stanley knifes are ideal)
1.Take your glass vinegar bottle and make shure it is washed thoroughly throughout.
2.Now Measure 200ml of water in your glass measuring jug and pour this into your vinegar bottle with one of your filters.
3 If you have a strong blender, powder down the Acacia Confusa bark so it has a wider surface area. I use a 600w philips blender which does the job! (dont worry if you don't own a blender you can get away with using just shreeded bark)
4.Filter in approximately 20g of (powdered or shreeded) Acacia Confusa Bark into your bottle, and give a vigourous shake to strip down the bark (it should look like slightly red)
5.Now store this solution in a dark, undisturbed part of your working area at room temperature overnight! (I use my bedroom cabinet and would store for 24hours, shaking every now 4-6hours)
6.Once 24 hours has passed will now need to perform a defat
7.Measure out 50ml of Naphtha with your measuring Jug and then continue to add this to your vinegar bottle using one of your small filters
8.Start shaking your solution for around 4-6 minutes (from what i have learnt the defat removes the unwanted alkaloids, so be sure to give it a ruddy good shake)
9.Start running a hot water bath @ 60c (You may be limited to your resources! So SWIM used a sink with the hot water tap which was filled up to the top with the hottest water it could produce. This came out to around 45c – 51c which is satisfactory)
10.Place your solution in the hot water bath (this does help speed up the process of the defat, after around 30 - 60 mins, both layers will have sperated)
11.Using your pipette python out the top layer of naphtha and store in one of your plastic pill bottle (make sure to name it something like ''defat bottle'' and eventually dispose ofit in the right way!)
12.Repeat steps 7 to 11 one more time
13.Now you have finished the defat stage, Measure out 5g of caustic soda and to add to your solution using a filter (remember to use googles, gloves and dusk mask when dealing with caustic soda, if u dont and get it on your hands it hurts, i know you heard it billion times, BUT MAINTAIN SAFETY!!!)
14.Give the bottle a shake, it will turn from dark red to dark black
(The next procedure is exactly like the defat, only we will use our solvent to remove the NN-DMT from the bark)
15.Measure out 50ml of Naphtha with your measuring Jug and then continue to add this to your vinegar bottle using one of your small filters
16.Start running another hot water bath and place the bottle in your hot water bath for 30 minutes
17.After 30minutes have passed, take your solution and give it a shake for 2-4 minutes (being careful not to create any froth on top of your solution, this is called ''emulsions'' which stops the seperation of the solvent on top from the soupy liquid below)
18.Now run another hot water bath and place your solutuion init, waiting for around 1-2 hours (or how ever long until the 2 layers have seperated)
19.After a couple hours, the layers will have seperated, Using your pipette python out the top layer of naphtha and store in your other glass pill bottle (this is the sovlent that contains your dmt)
20.Repeat steps 15 - 19 another 2 times
21.Now get your glass baking dish and pour the dmt into the dish (making sure no soupy dark liquid is in the solvent)
22.Place your glass baking dish in the freezer for 24 hours
23.Remove your glass baking dish and python of the remaining solvent while being careful not to python up any of the white crystals (the remaining solvent can be stored for use again in steps 15-19)
24.Place your dish in a cool dark area i use my bedroom cabinet with a vinyl record case placed on top so no oxygen or light gets to the crystals (you will notice if you crystals have prolonged exposure to light and air they will become orangey / yellow)
25.After the crystals have fully dried, use a razor blade to scrape up the crystals and store within a clean new dodgy bag (i would store this dodgy bag within another 2 dodgy bags within 2 boxes stored in a dark area)
NOTES: SWIM has found from extracting 20g of Acacia Confusa using this tek swim can produce a yeild of 0.1g (100mg) of white-ish pure NN-DMT xtals, swim has noticed and from others experiences that acacia is slightly more stronger than mimosa, this might be down to another present alkaloid in the acacia called ''NMT'' (even thruogh its present in mimosa aswell)
Allthrough NN-DMT extracted from Acacia is slightly more powerful the downside is that you only get 0.1g from 20g bark extraction, as apose to mimosa in which you could produce 0.2g from 20g bark extraction. If anyone out there using this tek and getting better results than swim, please pm swim so can incorparate your method into the tek.
If you have any doughts about this or questions, please read this thread before you create a new one or reply, it might be of a help to you http://psychonaut.com/post-42342-288148.html?f=36#p288148
Finally any questions people have, please feel free to ask! SWIM has tried to make this tek as simple as possible aswell as including lots of detail and step by step instructions, Good luck and Godspeed..........
Swim did not make this Tek nor would condone anyone using it for anything else than scientific and educational purposes.
Swim will happily answer any question you have on this tek
(through it is preety easy! only thing u have to worry about is emulsions!! just don't shake 2 hard)
Swim will happily answer any question you have on this tek
(through it is preety easy! only thing u have to worry about is emulsions!! just don't shake 2 hard)