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what's the temperature outside ?
does it rain ?
does it rain ?
Peyotes getting weird colors
- Auteur de la discussion ProStoner
- Date de début
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i wouldn't expose it to varying temperatures, it might be to hard on him. indoors, with a more or less constant temperature might be fine. remember that it is debilitated, fighting a fungal infection, he doesn't need any more variables, like rain (more wet soil), cold, or direct sunlight. keep him in windows facing north, or, at most, eastern. if you can't, just keep him away from direct sunlight.
don't get high hopes on this one, though...if he survives the infection, the soil will be infected as well, replace soil before the summer if he survives!
i wish you and your peyote luck. does it have a name ?
don't get high hopes on this one, though...if he survives the infection, the soil will be infected as well, replace soil before the summer if he survives!
i wish you and your peyote luck. does it have a name ?
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for me, they diserve names. i name everything, from my guitar to my cacti, to my car.
things get more personal that way, not just a simple cactus or a car. a way of belonging to them as they belong to you
things get more personal that way, not just a simple cactus or a car. a way of belonging to them as they belong to you
Goran.Hrsak
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Hi my "Stoner". I will help you with every tip bout your problem after getting some more info and help-info from others.
Replant your cacti. In mean time check roots. Don't be gentle! Squeeze it, cut with knife or razor. If root is brown beneath or soft without green tissue cut those parts! One third of roots are enough for cacti afterwards survival!
When you put "fertilizer" put only one third of it! Peyote isn't Aloe Vera or Trichoricereus" Peyote lives on third of all others cacti requirements.
Bout rocks. Rock are fine, the best substitute for shade. Smaller on soil and 2-3 bigger ones for "bush like" shade(this will allow cacti to be on sun all day). In winter time smaller rocks-gravel have watering accumulating effect but in summer time this effect is reversed. Talking only bout surface layer! My cacti have 30% of small gravel-sand in soil(this is other matter-in soil sand drain out everything more then cacti needs). So I do not see any connection from other members postings that mentioned problems are to blame those small amount of rocks on the top soil layer. My Peyos are on (any)sun all day! With those rocks included, for many years and no problems like that. Problems starts if you put it in shade with rocks!!!!(pseudo winter time scheme start to happen).
How much temp is out side is irrelevant! Only if night-morning temp isn't beneath 5C for one week. But last 10 days isn't. We have similar temps.
But if temp doesn't rise above 15C leave out watering time. Wait 2 days (warmer of course!) And check soil with tooth pick! Every starting grower, but I say every starter PLANT grower check that by this way. Superb indicator of soil moist. :wink:
I Have before told you what fungi attack, they attack over moisten roots, watering roots in mild of day when your cacti is hot, this is big shock!, try by yourself something like that (Heat yourself on bright sun and then jump into 8 degrees cold water!!
But you can give some fungicide to it but also one third. Everything in one third, MAX HALF!!
MORE QUESTIONS, ASK.
P.M. Cutting is last resort! Do that only if all roots are gone to hell or if your upper part (green head) is brown-rotten on soil layer part in whole diameter of cacti-Peyote.
PEDRO and OTHER TRICHO CACTI LIKE PERUVIAN TORCH ARE SOMETHING ELSE! SO YOU CAN'T APPLY THOSE HELP-TIPS FOR ANY CACTI THEN PEYOTE ONLY. TORCH&PEDRO'S HAVE THEIR OWN SCHEME
Peace
Light
Bless
8) 8)
Replant your cacti. In mean time check roots. Don't be gentle! Squeeze it, cut with knife or razor. If root is brown beneath or soft without green tissue cut those parts! One third of roots are enough for cacti afterwards survival!
When you put "fertilizer" put only one third of it! Peyote isn't Aloe Vera or Trichoricereus" Peyote lives on third of all others cacti requirements.
Bout rocks. Rock are fine, the best substitute for shade. Smaller on soil and 2-3 bigger ones for "bush like" shade(this will allow cacti to be on sun all day). In winter time smaller rocks-gravel have watering accumulating effect but in summer time this effect is reversed. Talking only bout surface layer! My cacti have 30% of small gravel-sand in soil(this is other matter-in soil sand drain out everything more then cacti needs). So I do not see any connection from other members postings that mentioned problems are to blame those small amount of rocks on the top soil layer. My Peyos are on (any)sun all day! With those rocks included, for many years and no problems like that. Problems starts if you put it in shade with rocks!!!!(pseudo winter time scheme start to happen).
How much temp is out side is irrelevant! Only if night-morning temp isn't beneath 5C for one week. But last 10 days isn't. We have similar temps.
But if temp doesn't rise above 15C leave out watering time. Wait 2 days (warmer of course!) And check soil with tooth pick! Every starting grower, but I say every starter PLANT grower check that by this way. Superb indicator of soil moist. :wink:
I Have before told you what fungi attack, they attack over moisten roots, watering roots in mild of day when your cacti is hot, this is big shock!, try by yourself something like that (Heat yourself on bright sun and then jump into 8 degrees cold water!!
But you can give some fungicide to it but also one third. Everything in one third, MAX HALF!!
MORE QUESTIONS, ASK.
P.M. Cutting is last resort! Do that only if all roots are gone to hell or if your upper part (green head) is brown-rotten on soil layer part in whole diameter of cacti-Peyote.
PEDRO and OTHER TRICHO CACTI LIKE PERUVIAN TORCH ARE SOMETHING ELSE! SO YOU CAN'T APPLY THOSE HELP-TIPS FOR ANY CACTI THEN PEYOTE ONLY. TORCH&PEDRO'S HAVE THEIR OWN SCHEME
Peace
Light
Bless
8) 8)
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i think we are not talking about the same thing. the rocks i am talking about are that little rocks 1cm wide that are spread above the soil. those hold water in the soil, it doesn't let it evaporate. i am 100% sure of it, i have made experiences about that layer of rocks. the same plant with the same pot, in the same weather conditions, evaporates the soil in 2, maximum 3 days. with that layer of rocks, it can hold water up to a week. in the same conditions. and you said that in the summer it can absorb water ? i have done my experiences both in summer and winter, and the rocks held the water in both seasons. i used limestone about 1cm wide.
i think they are the main reason to the rotten cactus. i might be wrong, though. but i have experienced this, and double and triple checked to see if it was influencing the soil moisture, and it was!
i think they are the main reason to the rotten cactus. i might be wrong, though. but i have experienced this, and double and triple checked to see if it was influencing the soil moisture, and it was!
druglessdouglas
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dont remove em from the ground. most treatments come as sprays that penetrate the skin of the plant so not necesary to remove. also you want them STRONG not dormant. if the root is ROTTEN then you could cut it off, let the top dry untill the cut stops weeping then place on top of dry potting compost. it will then grow roots doun into soil. however if the top is infected( not always obvious) the top will eventually die.go for the monthly treatment with fungicide to prevent reinfection. winter is hard on the poor things. i keep mine under lights all year round with odd days on the windowsill. they are also prone to spider mite and cyclamen mite during dry weather. they can act as a vector for fungal infection. there are chemicals to deal w them but they develope imunity v quickly. your local cannabis grow shop wil stock predators which gobble them up. cheap, easy to use and will establish themselves in warm weather in your pots. ive given up on peyote as i live in N Scotland and have no good weather but im envious of anyonewho has the conditions to grow them
thanks goran, there is many many helpfull information in your post
I will investigate the roots more closely then .. and even cut in it if I have to
but they seemed still whitish .. atleast not brown as the infection on the peyote itself
I also thought that Sun wasn't bad .. cause well where they originally grow.. they get loads of light right ?
but the bigger stones might be an good idea to create some shade
but if they survive, the main thing is not to overwater them again and ur very right about the Hot sun --> cold water stress thing...
but I gave them the fungicide, the bottle says untill it drips off. . but I thought that would be a bit much, so I think I sticked to the 1/3, MAX half rule allright here
I'm gonna take 1 out to check the root ... and let u know, and then i`ll just wait how they react to the new soil and fungicide,
and i`ll see if it gets worse or not
thanks a lot
-->DruglessDouglas
I`m sure theres no't bug on it yet
but its most probably the top that is rotten and not the root
and if its both .. well then i`m screwed :S
thanks
I will investigate the roots more closely then .. and even cut in it if I have to
but they seemed still whitish .. atleast not brown as the infection on the peyote itself
I also thought that Sun wasn't bad .. cause well where they originally grow.. they get loads of light right ?
but the bigger stones might be an good idea to create some shade
but if they survive, the main thing is not to overwater them again
and ur very right about the Hot sun --> cold water stress thing...but I gave them the fungicide, the bottle says untill it drips off. . but I thought that would be a bit much, so I think I sticked to the 1/3, MAX half rule allright here
I'm gonna take 1 out to check the root ... and let u know, and then i`ll just wait how they react to the new soil and fungicide,
and i`ll see if it gets worse or not
thanks a lot
-->DruglessDouglas
I`m sure theres no't bug on it yet
but its most probably the top that is rotten and not the root
and if its both .. well then i`m screwed :S
thanks
Goran.Hrsak
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sval a dit:
You are wrong! All that depends where cacti is growing (home or desert), and age is big factor here also. :wink:
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in all websites i've checked, and all videos i've seen, i never saw a peyote in full sun. you are the only one claiming this, goran. are you sure ?
have you seen a peyote in full sun, on 40ºC and 40%RH ?
if baby peyotes will die imediately if they are exposed to full sun, even in spring or fall, how can they grow into larger cactus ?
have you seen a peyote in full sun, on 40ºC and 40%RH ?
if baby peyotes will die imediately if they are exposed to full sun, even in spring or fall, how can they grow into larger cactus ?
Goran.Hrsak
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Jesus Christ! I am talking every time bout Peyotes in home growing situations!!
If you (everyone) read my posts you would see what I am telling every time.
Peyote with 3 years can be freely placed outdoors when temp. rise above 5C at night-early morning and 10+++C at day time. Only seedlings needs shade. This is why Peyote grow under other cactus or shrubs.
WILD PEYOTE GROWS UNDER CACTUS OR SHRUBS BECAUSE OTHER WAY SEED AND YOUNG PLANT WOULD BE BURNED BY SUN!
Couple factors ensure full sun cacti exposure.
1.Healthy plant
2.Old enough for such sun, this is delicate question!, how to tell when cacti is enough old.
3.Watering in early morning or evening, other ways cacti builds risk percentage for "cold" catch.
4.Three or Four time per year, Peyote needs to be replanted.
5.Of course enough fertilizer, to much will burn it from below (roots), so watch that (one third of recommended dose)
6.My cacti are all those years on burning sun (+42C for one week last summer, example, no damage).
But you need "nose" for such exposure, lack of knowledge, experience can be fatal! To much water in noon sun=risking fatal ending.
If you (everyone) read my posts you would see what I am telling every time.
Peyote with 3 years can be freely placed outdoors when temp. rise above 5C at night-early morning and 10+++C at day time. Only seedlings needs shade. This is why Peyote grow under other cactus or shrubs.
WILD PEYOTE GROWS UNDER CACTUS OR SHRUBS BECAUSE OTHER WAY SEED AND YOUNG PLANT WOULD BE BURNED BY SUN!
Couple factors ensure full sun cacti exposure.
1.Healthy plant
2.Old enough for such sun, this is delicate question!, how to tell when cacti is enough old.
3.Watering in early morning or evening, other ways cacti builds risk percentage for "cold" catch.
4.Three or Four time per year, Peyote needs to be replanted.
5.Of course enough fertilizer, to much will burn it from below (roots), so watch that (one third of recommended dose)
6.My cacti are all those years on burning sun (+42C for one week last summer, example, no damage).
But you need "nose" for such exposure, lack of knowledge, experience can be fatal! To much water in noon sun=risking fatal ending.
well, if anyone is still interested
My peyotes are still alive and they seem to be kicking aswell
last week I was on a holiday, and just now I see what looks to be a dried up flower on one of my peyotes
that's a good sign right ?
also since last I posted here they havn't received any water anymore
and the infected seems to have stopped and even reduced.
so I think they might be recovering and that next summer they will be able to grow again.. because the summer isn't that long anymore and when the winter comes, well then I don't give them much water anyways
My peyotes are still alive and they seem to be kicking aswell
last week I was on a holiday, and just now I see what looks to be a dried up flower on one of my peyotes
that's a good sign right ?
also since last I posted here they havn't received any water anymore
and the infected seems to have stopped and even reduced.
so I think they might be recovering and that next summer they will be able to grow again.. because the summer isn't that long anymore and when the winter comes, well then I don't give them much water anyways
Goran.Hrsak
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How your infection looks? Color, size, numbers, which part now, how old cacti is now, how it is big, if U see dried pink-white-rose residents U are looking at dried flower. I collect dried flowers. For luck and enchantments in conductions or potions(we already discussed what "magic is" so do not bother opening theme-already have more then half of gram from dry flowers!).How big is your pot, when U have replanted cacti last time, by eye how the soil is doing? If U thirst very strongly your cacti, skin blueing will start and at the end skin rush. Like fried human skin after cooking on sun. But cacti doesn't need right sun on it. Warm and humid air is enough. Deserts are very dry! Our summer's hotties aren't dry, in fact very humid and shower producing.
Before your answer I will give U advice. Drill small holes at base of pot. Many holes, 10-15, 2-3milimeters wide. Then plant big, huge cacti in very large pot. Not pot! Barrel! U can use Salvia, Echinopsis cacti, Artemesia absinthium, Cannabis plant, big plant of any kind or vine like B.caapi or HBW. And then put smaller pot with Peyo's (drilled pot) on moist soil of bigger plants. And dig hole in bigger pot's soil. Suppose that soil in bigger pot would be black-rich earth. If your pot with Peyo's are let's say 6cm, U will need to make 2cm deep hole and then beery pot in that soil. MOIST FROM BIGGER POT WILL SLOWLY BUT SURELY CLIMB UP THE LOWER PARTS OF PEYO'S POT. ALSO GIVE SOME WATER AT LEAST ONCE PER 10 DAYS WITH SYRINGE FROM 5cc.
Before your answer I will give U advice. Drill small holes at base of pot. Many holes, 10-15, 2-3milimeters wide. Then plant big, huge cacti in very large pot. Not pot! Barrel! U can use Salvia, Echinopsis cacti, Artemesia absinthium, Cannabis plant, big plant of any kind or vine like B.caapi or HBW. And then put smaller pot with Peyo's (drilled pot) on moist soil of bigger plants. And dig hole in bigger pot's soil. Suppose that soil in bigger pot would be black-rich earth. If your pot with Peyo's are let's say 6cm, U will need to make 2cm deep hole and then beery pot in that soil. MOIST FROM BIGGER POT WILL SLOWLY BUT SURELY CLIMB UP THE LOWER PARTS OF PEYO'S POT. ALSO GIVE SOME WATER AT LEAST ONCE PER 10 DAYS WITH SYRINGE FROM 5cc.
druglessdouglas
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treat them with the fungicide every month just to be sure. follow the instructions as to how long before consumption you have to stop treatment
Goran.Hrsak
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daytripper a dit:
DAYTRRIPER. SORRY MAN. NOW WHEN I READ AGAIN MY POSTINGS AFTER YOUR QUESTION BOUT YOUNG-PEYOTE-SUN-SHADE, I SEE THAT MY ANSWER SOUNDS HARSH! OFFENDING! SORRY. MY INTENTIONS WASN'T TO HURT U OR JUST PEELING U OF FROM UNFOCUSED READING AND ALSO MINE UNDETAILED WRITINGS.
SORRY IF U FELT MINE POST AS OFFENDING REPOSTING. INTENTIONS WAS DIFFERENT.
PEACE
LOVE
LIGHT
BLESS
Goran.Hrsak
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JustinNed a dit:Good to hear, Pro!
Yes, I am here. Only couple of times drop out (for 2-3 days) :lol:
Over flowed number of 1000 posts this week!! 8)
After work this is my relive vent. Also manufacturing DMT+5MEO so I need to read bunch of Internet works and members writings.
Also I have lower down from CACTI attic and started to communicate with shroom, ayahuasca, rest guys. BUT CACTI IS MINE!
:lol: