1 gram per watt?
- Auteur de la discussion im1badpup
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im1badpup
Elfe Mécanique
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- 10 Sept 2008
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i found this document regarding botyritis, its long winded and technical (you know you love it lol) but i thought its worth putting up, the biological controls i skimmed was interesting, theres a reference going off it somewhere regarding control of root rot also.
its nothing new the products are available, probably far cheaper at the garden centre than a specialised shop, controls arnt an answer but with a few week to go could make all the difference..
http://www.php.wur.nl/NR/rdonlyres/4ADD ... PP2007.pdf
its nothing new the products are available, probably far cheaper at the garden centre than a specialised shop, controls arnt an answer but with a few week to go could make all the difference..
http://www.php.wur.nl/NR/rdonlyres/4ADD ... PP2007.pdf
I am really happy to not have to deal with that now, my sympathies.....my problem is the opposite, the humidity is about 25% here, its like mountain desert (and its great once you get used to it)
With these plants, we are really just on the learning curve, plus they are seed plants, not clones, so they had a long veg time, next time we will give a rooted clone 6 days and then flower it.
The 50% Haze bloodline is evident with the feeding schedule/regimen....these plants do not like heavy ferts, they like a mild, once a day application in the rockwool media we use.
On that subject, let me say, rockwool is outstanding. I love the stuff. But I am going to change to coco and hydroton, most probably, in the near future....possibly all hydroton.
'Canopy management'- I won't say we lost the canopy, but it's raging and tangled, we have a grid, but they need another one, jesus.....I am not an advocate of placing 4 x 4 tables against each other, but thats what we have, one HUGE 8 x 8 table with 5000 watts of light, 4:1 HPS to MH ratio
So, if I am to use the title of this thread, I am supposed to be able to pull 5000 g from this.....should be something around that.
With these plants, we are really just on the learning curve, plus they are seed plants, not clones, so they had a long veg time, next time we will give a rooted clone 6 days and then flower it.
The 50% Haze bloodline is evident with the feeding schedule/regimen....these plants do not like heavy ferts, they like a mild, once a day application in the rockwool media we use.
On that subject, let me say, rockwool is outstanding. I love the stuff. But I am going to change to coco and hydroton, most probably, in the near future....possibly all hydroton.
'Canopy management'- I won't say we lost the canopy, but it's raging and tangled, we have a grid, but they need another one, jesus.....I am not an advocate of placing 4 x 4 tables against each other, but thats what we have, one HUGE 8 x 8 table with 5000 watts of light, 4:1 HPS to MH ratio
So, if I am to use the title of this thread, I am supposed to be able to pull 5000 g from this.....should be something around that.
Spice, what hydro system did you opt for?
have you a separate area for mother plants? if you have mothers or will have, what will you grow them in?
hydroton works well. give it a good wash before you use it, it always contains a load of dust which turns into a clay slurry at the bottom of your tank.
Coco Coir works best in areas with hard water (high pH) as its slightly acidic. ive never used it
have you a separate area for mother plants? if you have mothers or will have, what will you grow them in?
hydroton works well. give it a good wash before you use it, it always contains a load of dust which turns into a clay slurry at the bottom of your tank.
Coco Coir works best in areas with hard water (high pH) as its slightly acidic. ive never used it
im1badpup
Elfe Mécanique
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- 10 Sept 2008
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i used to like the short veg, and then flower, it was the first method i ever tried, (once i realised about the feed been way to strong, covered the rockwool to prevent algae and discovered how useful an eec pen was lol) its the il-legalality with a large volume of plants prevents me from doing it now.
i remember getting symptoms of overwatering late on, nothing major but i could never quite get it quite right with rockwool myself.
theres some threads over on uk420 about coco coir, unfortunately i cant send a link because im now banned from the site
(dont ask its too funny lol)
sounds like you gonna be done just in time for xmas, and a happy one at that! :D
i remember getting symptoms of overwatering late on, nothing major but i could never quite get it quite right with rockwool myself.
theres some threads over on uk420 about coco coir, unfortunately i cant send a link because im now banned from the site
(dont ask its too funny lol)sounds like you gonna be done just in time for xmas, and a happy one at that! :D
Mnemo- It's a basic setup, 40 gallon reservoir with a 4x4 table-tray sitting on top, we have 4 of them butted against each other for a raging 8x8 multi-table....
Yes, we have mothers......they are in stasis now, trying to just keep them small for a minute, my own preference is that I would like to do mothers in some nice, mycorrhizae-enriched soil, ultimately, but right now they are just in 4 inch grodan blocks.
My understanding is that coco is compatible with the mycorrhizae and thats my reasoning; I want the benefits of that fungi, but also want the benefits of the hydroton. (thx for the tip on the washing,saved me a bit of trouble)
My water here is pretty good, about 150 ppm from municipal water, ph 7.5
A little deduction says that most of the ppms are probably Ca+ and Mg+ ions, in the form of the carbonates, which is the reason the ph is 7.5 and pretty stable....the big problem in this area is evaporative losses in the reservoir leading to increases in ppm and ph fluctuation....I figured out that allowing algae to grow on the rockwool is a no-no, not for the usual reasons either (which normally are along the lines of: 'algae steals oxygen') no, this algae crap acidifies the nutrient solution in its own right through some metabolic process) so black plastic covers on the blocks...
onebadpup- you and I have discussed this briefly, but I want to air this topic because I know there are other people here who may have something to say;
We use General Hydroponics 3-part series plant food, which consists of 'grow' 'micro' 'bloom' components that are mixed in ratios based on life stage. GH recommends 5 ml per gallon of water of each component as a basic '1-1-1' formulation.....if they say, for instance,
" a Grow phase is a 3-2-1 formulation for heavy vegetative growth with this being 15ml of 'grow' 10 ml of 'micro' and 5 ml of 'bloom' per gallon of water"
We used this on our plants, as they said. Our plants begin showing classic over-fert symptoms before flowering, we were lucky and was able to flush out the build up, but there was definitely a toxic amount accumulating. You could see the dehydration occurring by the twisting and wilting leaves, etc....
We got an EC/ppm meter and found that the recommended dosages were so high our EC meter wouldn't read it, the ppm were about 1700 !!!!
so......you cannot trust these manufacturers to shoot straight with you on AMOUNTS but we find that their ratios are good. Always remember, these guys are more interested in selling you plant food than seeing you finish a crop.
I think my future within all of this is going in one of two directions; open a grow store or begin formulating and marketing hydroponic plant food.
PT Barnum said so
Yes, we have mothers......they are in stasis now, trying to just keep them small for a minute, my own preference is that I would like to do mothers in some nice, mycorrhizae-enriched soil, ultimately, but right now they are just in 4 inch grodan blocks.
My understanding is that coco is compatible with the mycorrhizae and thats my reasoning; I want the benefits of that fungi, but also want the benefits of the hydroton. (thx for the tip on the washing,saved me a bit of trouble)
My water here is pretty good, about 150 ppm from municipal water, ph 7.5
A little deduction says that most of the ppms are probably Ca+ and Mg+ ions, in the form of the carbonates, which is the reason the ph is 7.5 and pretty stable....the big problem in this area is evaporative losses in the reservoir leading to increases in ppm and ph fluctuation....I figured out that allowing algae to grow on the rockwool is a no-no, not for the usual reasons either (which normally are along the lines of: 'algae steals oxygen') no, this algae crap acidifies the nutrient solution in its own right through some metabolic process) so black plastic covers on the blocks...
onebadpup- you and I have discussed this briefly, but I want to air this topic because I know there are other people here who may have something to say;
We use General Hydroponics 3-part series plant food, which consists of 'grow' 'micro' 'bloom' components that are mixed in ratios based on life stage. GH recommends 5 ml per gallon of water of each component as a basic '1-1-1' formulation.....if they say, for instance,
" a Grow phase is a 3-2-1 formulation for heavy vegetative growth with this being 15ml of 'grow' 10 ml of 'micro' and 5 ml of 'bloom' per gallon of water"
We used this on our plants, as they said. Our plants begin showing classic over-fert symptoms before flowering, we were lucky and was able to flush out the build up, but there was definitely a toxic amount accumulating. You could see the dehydration occurring by the twisting and wilting leaves, etc....
We got an EC/ppm meter and found that the recommended dosages were so high our EC meter wouldn't read it, the ppm were about 1700 !!!!
so......you cannot trust these manufacturers to shoot straight with you on AMOUNTS but we find that their ratios are good. Always remember, these guys are more interested in selling you plant food than seeing you finish a crop.
I think my future within all of this is going in one of two directions; open a grow store or begin formulating and marketing hydroponic plant food.
PT Barnum said so
"my own preference is that I would like to do mothers in some nice, mycorrhizae-enriched soil"
John Innes No.3 or No.4 if you can find it, with some seaweed mixed in seems to keep them happy. John Innes tends to be "live" anyway, but you can purchase mycorrhizae in easy to use bottles
John Innes No.3 or No.4 if you can find it, with some seaweed mixed in seems to keep them happy. John Innes tends to be "live" anyway, but you can purchase mycorrhizae in easy to use bottles
Mnemo, what do you think of compost teas? I have been having dreams of being able to get rid of this hydro style of growing altogether, but not for an unproductive style....I know that the results will depend on the quality of the compost, but I am thinking that good compost shouldn't be that hard to find, worse case scenario I make it......
I saw some videos on youtube where compost tea guys demonstrate its effectiveness.
I am going to get some pictures soon and post them for everyone.
We figure we're at 4 weeks from finish, some of these buds will approach 2 feet in length, and the biggest one at the base is about as big around as a small melon.
It's going to be a good Christmas it looks like.
:)
I saw some videos on youtube where compost tea guys demonstrate its effectiveness.
I am going to get some pictures soon and post them for everyone.
We figure we're at 4 weeks from finish, some of these buds will approach 2 feet in length, and the biggest one at the base is about as big around as a small melon.
It's going to be a good Christmas it looks like.
:)
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Banni
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