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is there any tips out there on helping cacti grow alittle faster.
fertilizers ??
i nkow its probly not the best thing to push the old cactus but im well impatient.
any one tried Brassinolide, the plant steroid.
Hello mate,

I believe the best way one can increase growth speeds is by Grafting the cactus.

Personally I have never really looked into it deeply but I have found some very usefull information on grafting for you Smile

A guide on grafting:
http://www.kadasgarden.com/grafting2.html
A background on grafting:
http://faculty.ucc.edu/biology-ombrello ... _cacti.htm

Hope this helps 8)
i love u guys, this site rox my sox lol
Seriously, miracle-grow speeds along growth.
You dont want to consume chemical plant steroid...

Its best to keep to organic ferterliser and grafting in my opinion, Chemical ferterliser doesnt facilitate for all aspects of plant growth. Organic ferterliser has enzymes and other unique compounds that help to produce a better smelling, looking and tasting plant which can only mean that it is working to its highest production rate in all other area's. Just becuase something is big doesnt mean its full of goodness Smile
Depends on what cacti you want to grow faster: Grafting is useful for slow growing cacti like peyote - but as a grafting base, people often use the trichocereus species because these are the fastest growing cacti in the world. So, if you have a San Pedro cactus, it is already as fast as any cactus will ever grow. Nothing can speed that up.
you can use fertilizer poor in nitrogen like (2-3%). Nitrogen slows down cacti and succulents growth!
sorry for my bad english
ciao!
Hulk
hulkpolliceverde a écrit :you can use fertilizer poor in nitrogen like (2-3%). Nitrogen slows down cacti and succulents growth!
sorry for my bad english
ciao!
Hulk

100% false. i was feeding my KK242 peruvian torch using the exact same soil, same lighting, once i added a 20%N fertalizer, within 4 days it was almost 2X as fat. (i noticed a considerable difference in rate of growth (the distance between spikes was longer, where usually that means the cacti grows skinnier, which was not the case))
100% false ?i don't think so, ALL cacti and succulents plant fertilazers are poor in N
hulkpolliceverde a écrit :you can use fertilizer poor in nitrogen like (2-3%). Nitrogen slows down cacti and succulents growth!
sorry for my bad english
ciao!
Hulk
Nitrogen (N) stimulates the growth of Cacti and other plants.

Few Nitrogen (as in a Cactus fertilizer: N-P-K = 5-15-25) stimulates the growth less
than a normal fertilizer (N-P-K = 20-20-20).
So it indeed slows down the growth in comparison with normal fertilizers !
sorry if I speak. nitrogen should be used sparingly in the fertilization of the cacti, it makes the plant grow faster, but it becomes very weak to face the winter. for fertilization of the cacti are good fertilizer with high potassium and phosphorus, these help to Lignify the plant's tissues, making it more resistant to disease and rot.
This can be a good fertilizer would be 1-2-3: 5-10-15 NPK.
p.s. sorry for the bad language
@ Scaltro...This sounds as if you speak from experience. Is this so?
If this is the case, would then using a high N fert make them grow faster with less lignin, if certain ones were to be harvested before winter(or, as here in southern cal, there isnt much of a winter). This may make for easier extraction, and more mass, ergo(possibly) more mescaline.(If it continues to produce alkaloids at the same rate)
Sorry, this seems a bit strange, and just thinking aloud. But this is interesting, and may warrant an experiment or two, as AFOAF lets nature do the work...

donilcruize

I think you need to keep this cacti at dry place. This will help in grow cacti faster.
wow, so my NPK : 3%-5%-7% won't really speed up the growth of a san pedro?
I should use a 20-20-20 (they do not have to fear winter since they are in the same room as me)

would it hurt the plant if every time I watered it i'll add this fertiliser? (i'm watering my san pedro every 3 days)
I prefer not to fertilize my cacti, thus producing more mescaline.
yes but if you plan to sell them, higher lenght equal higher profit.
I've looked at my local gardening store, the maximum is 6-6-6
you have to see the fertilizer granules, it has high nitrogen bonds.
But in this case we are not interested to sell but we are interested in eating them. Rolleyes
High nitrogen will produce long but weak cacti with a lot of water in it.
Hopefully it will not freeze there !
Grafting

kedrigen

..never tried this but apparently it works. Could be good for someone like myself in Canada where it can be a real S.O.B to get trichocereus sp Have a look here: Grafting Cacti seedlings - How to graft cactus seedlings onto Pereskiopsis
I agree with Sticki, grafting is definitely good for growth.

HOWEVER, I would say it is important to realize that faster growth means alkaloid percentage decreases. So it's a pointless trade-off if you're going for consumption.
So if you replant them again on ground after some period of grafting, you get your alkaloids back?
Plus i found a fertiliser for cacti 5-5-7, not that good for my peyote?
pereskiopsis is the right way guys..
Cacti are naturally slower growers than annual plants like cannabis or nettles. But peyote is not an especially slow grower - I can grow a flowering adult on its own roots in two years, on a par with many other globular cacti, and a lot faster than may other species that I grow.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]14523[/ATTACH]
Plant on left is exactly 2 years old - about to flower - plant on right is 3 and has flowered and fruited.


Cacti can respond positively to light doses of low N fertiliser, preferably organically based, especially if you intend to consume it. But IMHO the best way to achieve good growth is a good alkaline soil and lots of sunshine. Plenty of water in the summer. Grafted cacti may appeal to some, but they are always odd in appearance, with unusual growth patterns, pupping before they flower, often with a very unnatural green colouring, and there is some evidence that grafted cacti produce little mescaline.
Fast growth is not good. The slower psychedelic cacti the better. The alkaloids you want are deffence mechanism. The harder the conditions the more they produce to cope. Lophophora use mescaline and a pesticide and antifreeze. The more quickly the growth the more water the cells will contain diluting the good stuff. Slow growth in "difficult" conditions need more of the alkaloids to stave off drought, heat or cold. Now im not saying dont water on the contrary plenty of water during the growth period is good but adding fertilisers weekens the growth. Cell take up the nitrogen and use it to build proteins and get bigger quickly. The average size of the plants cells increase so more liquid ie water is needed to fill them. The plants reach a potential of growth that is not limited by the conditions of its natural environment. Waterbabies are not just meat head wrestlers with a passion for anbabolics. Ultimatelly the plant does not need to produce the chemmicals to survive as they are not needed so less are produced.
If you hard grow you cacti they get stronger and therefore make stronger concentrations of protective alkaloids. Use mineral soils, most psychadelic cacti can growth in the cracks between bare rock with no actual dirt in their natural settings. My soil mixes and a combination of stones, rocks, grit, clay no ingredients from plant or animal sources. Keep the soil very free draining so in the summer you can water every day if needed, the cacti should only be watered when all the soil is dry even inside the bottom of the pot. The choice of rocks to make the soil will eliminate the need for fertilizers that add potassium and phosphorus. Granites, limstone, dolomite, schists, sandstones, and various volcanic pumice and lavas will contain the required mineral nutrients the plants need. The roots have symbiotic bateria that disolve the dry rocks with enzymes the resulting salts are shared with the plant in exchange of a living environment. Cacti need winter rest periods. Normally in their natural environment they will have periods of drought such as a dry winter then wetter periods in summer is common. The cacti need this rest period for health and strong gowth but this period also results in increased alkaloid content as a side effect. Watering should stop during winter cacti can go for months without water in the mexican desert heat so a cool to cold higher latitude winters are surprisingly easy for the plant but thete is a draw back, damp, this causes rot. Not good. So if the plant is kept completely dry from November till march thats fine. It will stop any risk of rot and during this time the plant will use the reserves of water. Over the corse of the drought period the physical appearance of the plant will change, it will essentially deflate inceasing its alkaloids concentration. The best time to harvest is at the end of the drought period before the first watering. If you intend to then grow new heads on the remaining tap root or not ready to harvest be carefull until the plant is ready. As I mentioned earlier the symbiotic bateria dissolve the dry rock. The bateria don't stop doing this just because the plant is sleeping. Salts build up in the roots so the first watering causes a lot of swelling which can cause the plant to split. This is a doubled edged sword as it makes the plant more susceptible to infections from fungi and bateria causing rot. The plant will also up alkaliod production to defend its self. Water slowly to begin with, start when the first good sun in spring shines as early as February subject to night time tems. Dont water if night time temperature gets lower than say 5°C this early in the year. As the day light hours increase the soil should dry quicker allowing more waterings. Water in the evening so plants are dry by the time morning sun gets to them. In autum reduce frequency of watering with the temperture and stop well before the first frosts if you get them. Keep plants in bright direct light all year in higher latitudes, use shade cloth to reduce the light in lower latitudes or if the plants show too much reddish colour changes. You will get slow growth following this method but its stronger healthier and thetefore more productive growth

Trichocereus growth while similar is a little more forgiving. They require somewhat richer soils so along with the mineral ingredients add good quality loamy soil to about a 1/3 of the soil mix. These plants also will cope with damper conditions so dont be affraid to water a lot regularly in the growing season. While they will grow quickly in strong sun apparently the alkaliod content inceases when it struggles to find light so before you are ready to harvest put in the shade until it aquires a much darker appearance.


Happy growing
adetheproducer - I echo all that you say - my philosophy exactly !!
hi guys 'n gals :grin:

This is my first posting and I'd like to say hi to you all. (Can't find an introduction forum)
I'm really interested in growing cacti and just started growing from seeds a few months ago, san pedros and peyotes. Still growing strong! :lol:

Seems like pereskiopsis is da bomb for grafting! I've bought some cuttings which are growing a bit further right now.
Planning to graft some of my seedlings in a few weeks time. I'll keep you updated and will post some pics in the near future.
I am using growing lights from the very first start. This is really, really helpful!

The substrate for both the pedros and the peyotes consists of:
2 parts premixed cacti soil (7-7-10)
1 part perlite
1 part fine gravel 1-2 mm


Happy growing to ya all 8)
I use only worm pee. They love it. Good strong healthy growth.